51. Santiago de Compostela

 We made it! Windswept, saturated, mud stained but we made it. Yay!! 

What a day. What a journey!

After 51 days of walking and 1500+ kilometres I have arrived rejoicing at the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela. 

It’s been another atrocious day weather wise so I really don’t have many photos to share, but here’s a few snapshots taken when the rain eased enough to get my phone out.

First, David and his umbrella at the cathedral, looking a little worse for wear (the umbrella, I mean. David looking cheeky as always.)

David has been a great walking companion these past weeks, and so too Eva. Both have maintained a great sense of equilibrium and humour despite the, at times, trying conditions. I am grateful for their company, and also Matthieu (who we will meet again later this evening - he has arrived from the Primitivo). And, of course, dear Sarah, and Sarah L, and Andy, with whom I shared many of the earlier stages. Thank you fellow pilgrims.

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The star in the field - Compostela.

And another of David. He really does like that umbrella, and he certainly got an opportunity to use it these past few days, though sometimes it was too windy to risk it.

I’m sorry there aren’t more photos to share of this stage but really, the weather had the final say. And that’s what it’s like with the Camino. It’s bigger than all of us, and helps remind us of our place in the scheme of things - fragile fellow human beings; small, graced and ever journeying onward.

And to you, dear reader, thank you so much for your company, your interest and encouragement. It has been a privilege and a joy to share this journey with you, and humbling to have your care and support.

Buen Camino, amigos.

Thank you, thank you, thank you.

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50. Sabados to Santa Irene

Stage 50!! Wow! It began and ended in saturating rain, the walking bit anyway. In between, the weather was pretty good - overcast and occasional drizzle but really pretty good. 

Before that it was pretty good too. That’s because David invited Eva and myself to head over from the monastery and join him in his pension for breakfast (the owner of the Pension generously said it was okay). So, here’s the breakfast room with a cheeky looking David and a picture of the monastery in the background.

After breakfast, at around 7am we launched out into the darkness - the wind howling and the rain billowing. This is going to be a long day, I thought. But as I said, not long later the weather settled for a time and it was quite pleasant. Mind you, it didn’t get light until about 8.30am. 

The sun almost peeked through a one point (around midday), just as we were walking past this beautiful tree.

Sometime later, we caught up to a few others that we’ve got to know on the walk - Filipe from France, Ruth from Spain and Richard from Germany.

Not long after that we joined the Camino Frances and many more pilgrims - all looking tired and like drowned rats. I guess we were looking the same to them.

One of my culinary quests on Camino (not very sophisticated) is to find a chocolate moose and today it happened - in a little cafe not long before we reached our destination. It was delicious!!

And for your viewing pleasure, I’m going to try something new and include a little video of the path this afternoon. If you click on it you will feel even more a part of this walk. Grabbing a pair of flippers and a snorkel is advised!!!

So I’m in a lovely small (15 bed) albergue in Santa Irene tonight. I’m not sure who Santa Irene was but she was clearly influential in these parts. There’s story goes that the waters of the local Fountain of Santa Irene had the power to cure the plagues and ills of the pilgrims. Might try and fill my water bottle there tomorrow !!

There’s a shared pilgrim meal here tonight, which will be lovely. And then tomorrow- Santiago de Compostela!! One thousand five hundred and twenty eight kilometres down and just twenty two more to walk. The feet are a bit worse for wear for having walked in wet boots this past two days but rain, hail or shine I hope they’ll get me there tomorrow. Stay tuned!!

Buen Camino, amigos.

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49. Baamonde to Sabados dos Moxes

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Three words to describe today’s stage: ‘wet, windy, cold’ (Neil). ‘Wet, wet, wet’ (David). ‘Singing in the rain’ (Eva - not strictly three words but expressing great Camino spirit). The common theme here is rain and there was plenty of it today. It didn’t pour but basically it never stopped either. We got very wet. Having said that, much of the path was really delightful - winding woody trails. 

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Before any photos of today though, here’s one from last night - moi trying to sing the Spanish menu to the tune of Hey Jude. Needless to say, it was a hilarious disaster!! 

Photo courtesy of Robin (Netherlands)

And another of the crew gathered in the cafe for breakfast - dancing despite the weather!!

Back to today’s stage. Did I mention that it was wet?? It was raining when we walked out the albergue door at 6.30 in the morning, it was raining when we walked into the Monasterio de Sabados at 4.00 in the afternoon, and it rained every minute between. Not pouring rain, more like a drizzle that eventually soaks you to the bone.

Mindful of the old expression that ‘some people walk in the rain and some people just get wet’, we gave ourselves to the walk seeking not to resist. It was a tough day but also satisfying. Just look at those cheery faces!!

Photo courtesy of David (England)

I’m actually talking to Sarah on the phone as this photo was taken. That was nice. 

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Photo courtesy of David (England)

Photo courtesy of Eva (Netherlands)

It was mostly too wet to get the camera out so just a few photos today, including the two above shared my walking companions for today. The next two are from Eva, of me walking into the Monastereo at Sabados.

I couldn’t resist this final shot of socks drying on the chair in the cafe where we had dinner. This is such a pilgrim practice - drying gear whenever and wherever you get the chance!

The forecast is for rain to continue all night, and all day tomorrow and the next day, and the next. We’ll see what unfolds but basically it’s a case of, if you can’t get out of it, you may as well get into it. And since we have to be out of this albergue by 9.00am tomorrow that’s what we’ll do.

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Buenas noches, amigos, and thanks so much for all your encouraging comments. I really appreciate you following along.

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48. As Paredes to Baamonde

 ‘Meevaller’ is the Dutch word for better than expected. 

I was casting around with fellow pilgrims for words to describe today’s stage and this is what Eva (from Netherlands) offered, and it fits. All the forecasts for today predicted rain. The rain came but it was, well, better than expected in terms of how much. My experience of rain in Galicia is of monsoonal amounts but, in fact, it was pretty light rain for most of the day. I don’t think we’ve seen the last of it, but it certainly wasn’t heavy, which makes walking much easier. 

Also, the terrain was mild. Gentle and meandering is how I’d describe the path, through fields, woodlands and small villages. Really, very pleasant as you can see from these photos.

There’s no question I was feeling tired towards the end of the stage (partly accumulated fatigue) but the path was good and my legs held up.

So here I am in a slightly damp (the rain is increasing now) Baamonde, in an albergue with 76 beds, many of them occupied. It seems we (the little crew from As Padres) have caught up to a larger bubble of pilgrims who were a little further ahead of us. As I type this, there are pilgrims sprawled out in beds across the floor, some of them snoring loudly. There is wet weather gear dangling over every rail, wire and hook drying. 

This may not sound like five star accommodation or particularly appealing to those that like creature comforts (which I certainly do!) but hey, it could be worse. There could have been a flood, or the albergue could have been closed, or there could have been no eating option in town. 

I’m hopeful of a meal a little later with some Camino friends for company and then, of good night’s sleep. The last milestone said there were 101 kilometres to Santiago. Tomorrow is a 41 kilometre stage and there is the prospect of more rain, but hey, it could be worse. After that, there are only two stages to walk, and each a measly 30 kilometres. What’s not to like about that??!

And now - dinner!

‘Meevaller’. That says it all. 

Buen camino, amigos.

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47. Lourenzá to As Paredes

‘Once more unto the breach, dear friends, once more…’. 

And so another day begins. Rising, packing, and walking. At 7.00 am, I met up with David coming from his pension and we grabbed a quick coffee and tostada in the nearest open cafe. From there the path turned immediately up, the first climb of the day. Guess who? caught in the blinding beam of David’s head torch.

Photo courtesy of David (England)

The church of Santiago, not the cathedral!!

The first town we came to was Mondoñedo. It has a much bigger church (early gothic with a later baroque facade), indeed this is a cathedral! Building began in 1230 and it sits nestled in the heart of the town. 

There are big celebrations happening in Mondoñedo this weekend, apparently the oldest festival in Galicia, involving lots of horses and no doubt plenty of dressing up. Alas, we came and went too early to take part in anything. In fact, when we arrived the town was barely waking up.

Photo courtesy of David (England)

From Mondoñedo, the path led upwards to the great high plain that is most of Spain.

It was a long, hard climb but I think it is the last significant climb of this route. Anyway, here’s me triumphant at breaching the summit.

Photo courtesy of Robin (Netherlands)

From the top of the climb was a relatively relaxing stroll through rolling Galician hills and dales to today’s destination.

Photo courtesy of Robin (Netherlands)

I wonder if these two are heading for more horse festivities In Mondoñedo? Wherever they were going, they weren’t mucking around

Tonight, I’m staying in this delightful rural hostel in As Paredes. 

Makeshift treatment for a footsore pilgrim. This kind of scene is not unusual on camino!

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It was a relaxing late afternoon chatting with new pilgrim friends at the hostel. And then we gathered around a huge long table to share a hearty pilgrim menu - empanada, salad, lentil soup, tortilla and rice pudding. 

And now it’s 8.10pm here. Definitely time for bed!

Buenas noches, amigos.

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