Sunday 28 August 2022

Lugo to As Seixas

 We enjoyed our evening in Lugo, though it brought home to us that city life is more complex! When we stay in small villages there are usually only one or two places we can eat, and so we don’t have to debate too long about where to go. In a big city, it’s much harder to figure out the options - but we found something in the end and then retired to our albergue as usual by about 8.30pm.

This morning we walked out through the Porta da Santiago, one of the gates in the city wall - the statue in the niche is St James, this time in his less appealing Moor slaying guise.
 




The walk out of the city was quite pleasant - we went over a Roman bridge over the river Mino, and then saw this rather impressive foot bridge further down stream. 



The early morning light was striking on the fields of corn and the first woodland paths.





This little church nestled contentedly in the middle of the field.



And we continued to pass through woods of Spanish oak and chestnuts, although most of today’s stage was actually walked on road which was hard on the feet. The sections on dirt and leaf path were a very welcome relief!
 


The cows of the day.



This little church with its surrounding graveyard put us in mind of the Communion of Saints - it really did seem as though everyone who had lived and died in this tiny village was still here, together.



Today we saw three of the biggest dogs we’d ever seen. The biggest was patrolling a field and looked like a small horse - we were glad it totally ignored us. This second, smaller dog was similarly uninterested in our passing by!



We had an option to stay in a small settlement about 26km from Lugo, but decided to push on a bit further to As Seixa. Our legs and feet were weary from a long day mostly on asphalt, but we were relieved by intermittent sections of dirt, as well as a cooling breeze. At one point, somewhere to the right of the path, there seemed to be a village fiesta underway with loud music pumping over the fields. But we didn’t detour to take a closer look!



It was another long stage, over 33km, and our feet are definitely the worse for wear.



But we have arrived at the end in the most wonderful Municipal albergue. It’s out in the country, in a beautifully restored stone building and we have spent the late afternoon and evening sitting outside in the garden, the leaves rustling in the trees, the sun slowly setting, and just so peaceful. And, as we treat our blisters, we’ve enjoyed a lovely simple pilgrim meal of spaghetti with vegetables and a little dessert. This is one of those pure gold Camino nights! And there are only a few of us here, so we might have not so many interruptions and rustlings to contend with in the dorm!



Tomorrow our Primitivo route merges with the Camino Frances, and things will get a lot busier and more hectic. So we plan to let the day unfold as we sense it’s right, and feel so grateful to have had this peaceful evening today.

Buen Camino,
Neil and Sarah

5 comments:

  1. The morning newspaper is back to its old comforting form! Good to think of you chilling out after another big day, 33k is quite a hike. But gets you far from the madding crowd. Charles.

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  2. Koula thinks your blog gorgeous and has chosen a picture from it for her next watercolour. I wonder about the history of ‘walls’ thinking and envy little church with all its friends buried in its skirts. Jill

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  3. Make sure you have some pulpo in Melide tomorrow as you assimilate to the Francais vibe. Walk on!

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  4. I know what you mean about Communion of Saints. Yesterday I visited a friend whose mother died recently. We visited two cemeteries in a small country town, where generations of the same family are at rest. Many family members still live in the town. It was a very special day. A 'pure gold Camino night' sounds delightful. xo Elizabeth R|

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  5. What remarkable photos! Thanks for these posts.

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