1. Carcassonne to Arzens

This morning we set out. But first things first - breakfast. Eric and Alba joined us in the street at 7.30am and we went in search of a coffee and boulangerie. 

Success!!

It was another special time together and we felt blessed on our way by Alba and Eric’s company and good wishes. And then it really was time to go - they to their bus home to Barcelona, and we on our first stage. 

We walked towards the Cathedral and the stone was beautiful in the morning light.

We would have liked to go in to get a stamp in our pilgrim passports and sit quietly for a few minutes, but alas the door was firmly shut. So we said our prayers outside for those who are particularly on our minds as we begin our pilgrimage. 

Leaving the cathedral, we wended our way through the town to the Pont Vieux and the river Aude, and turned right onto the path. 

At an overpass across a major road, we got our first glimpse of the Pyrenees. Not so far to go! The cars passing underneath tooted us, in what we took to be encouragement, and along the way today several people wished us a good pilgrimage. There was a lovely sense of the hospitality and support of the locals. 

Gradually the outskirts of the urban area gave way to vineyards with large clusters of ripening grapes. 

And speaking of hospitality, this house marked the way with a little milestone complete with sculpture, shell and offering of water. 

Some of the old marker stones provided a welcome perch on the way into Alearic. 

The sunflowers are nearly at the end of flowering, but make a magnificent and cheerful sight still. 

And then it started to rain. Not much at first, and we thought we could wait it out under a quiet conifer. But it persisted and in the end we broke out our pack covers and rain jackets. 

We found the municipal gite without difficulty in the small town of Arzens. Contacting the person who could let us in was more of a challenge. When we did make contact, thanks to the owner of the pub who let us use his phone, the elderly hospitalleros could not have been kinder. They came very quickly, showed us around and made us welcome. They’re all volunteers and it is amazing to think of their commitment to enabling a journey like ours. 

Andy from Switzerland arrived not long after us, and we’ve just shared a delicious, simple meal of pasta with sardines, peas and goats cheese. 

And now, weary but happy, it’s time for bed! 

It’s been a great first day on the way.

😴💤😴💤😴💤