20 October 2025

48. As Paredes to Baamonde

 ‘Meevaller’ is the Dutch word for better than expected. 

I was casting around with fellow pilgrims for words to describe today’s stage and this is what Eva (from Netherlands) offered, and it fits. All the forecasts for today predicted rain. The rain came but it was, well, better than expected in terms of how much. My experience of rain in Galicia is of monsoonal amounts but, in fact, it was pretty light rain for most of the day. I don’t think we’ve seen the last of it, but it certainly wasn’t heavy, which makes walking much easier. 




Also, the terrain was mild. Gentle and meandering is how I’d describe the path, through fields, woodlands and small villages. Really, very pleasant as you can see from these photos.







There’s no question I was feeling tired towards the end of the stage (partly accumulated fatigue) but the path was good and my legs held up.


So here I am in a slightly damp (the rain is increasing now) Baamonde, in an albergue with 76 beds, many of them occupied. It seems we (the little crew from As Padres) have caught up to a larger bubble of pilgrims who were a little further ahead of us. As I type this, there are pilgrims sprawled out in beds across the floor, some of them snoring loudly. There is wet weather gear dangling over every rail, wire and hook drying. 


This may not sound like five star accommodation or particularly appealing to those that like creature comforts (which I certainly do!) but hey, it could be worse. There could have been a flood, or the albergue could have been closed, or there could have been no eating option in town. 


I’m hopeful of a meal a little later with some Camino friends for company and then, of good night’s sleep. The last milestone said there were 101 kilometres to Santiago. Tomorrow is a 41 kilometre stage and there is the prospect of more rain, but hey, it could be worse. After that, there are only two stages to walk, and each a measly 30 kilometres. What’s not to like about that??!


And now - dinner!


‘Meevaller’. That says it all. 
Buen camino, amigos.

👣
🧡
👣
🧡
👣

🌧️🌧️🌧️


8 comments:

  1. Bed? Check. Breakfast? Not mentioned. Tsk! Tsk!
    May tomorrow be better than expected, which chiefly means drier I expect.

    ReplyDelete
  2. 'Meevaller' - such a great word. I can see it coming in handy in the family lexicon!! And the path does look gentle and typically Camino-ish. I'm imagining the woodland smells and the feel of leaf litter beneath your feet. Sometimes the path ... May 'meevaller-ishness' continue for these final days - what an astonishing journey! Love S.

    ReplyDelete
  3. Hello Neil,
    I'm struck by the falling leaves in these photos- How different it would all look under snow! I'm reminded of the ' little red engine' ' I think I can , I think I can'. You're nearly at your destination !

    ReplyDelete
  4. The photos of the woodlands are peaceful. Hoping the forecast wasn't exactly correct. They do get it wrong occasionally. Not far to go now! It would be so comforting to have company at the end of each day. Go well, Neil.

    ReplyDelete
  5. Hello Neil - each time I get to your wonderful blog, I resolve to check in more frequently but then the usual interruptions to best laid plans intervene so I have just had a catch up of about 10 days! What a lot of adventures. So many different landscapes and even the sombre beauty of industrial ones. Terrible to read of your 'thud' but such a remarkable recovery. Love the rural paths, the trees, doors, churches and everything. Just reading 'had an early coffee and tostada' gives us all so much pleasure! Thank you again for the privilege of pilgrimage with you. Onwards to the, closely approaching, end. Best wishes, Sharyn Silver

    ReplyDelete
  6. These last few days have all seemed Meevaller… more gentle and of greater ease than the more arduous treks and country earlier. More people to commune with provide some lightness and conviviality too perhaps … sharing the journey and meals provides buoyancy perhaps? Hope the weather ahead only dampens clothing not spirits… love Deb

    ReplyDelete
  7. You have come such a mighty distance already Neil - hoping you will feel a wind behind you to carry through these last stages of the odyssey. And hoping too that the weather surprises you in good ways.

    ReplyDelete
  8. Even I, speaking Dutch every day, hadn't heard 'meevaller' in a while. The word says so much. It was better than expected, but it still isn't great. Oh Neil, 76 beds, most are occupied! How do you even fall asleep or does fatigue cause your ears to turn off so you don't hear the snoring! How happy will you be in your own bed soon. For now, enjoy the last stages, fierce!

    ReplyDelete