Montpellier

Montpellier is a beautiful city and one of the largest in the southern French region of Occitania (after Nice and Marseille). It has one of the largest pedestrianised areas in Europe and one of the largest student populations per capita (nearly a quarter of the total). It's a wonderful place to explore on foot.

A Dr Seuss themed park - at least it seems so!

Plane trees and fountains keep the central boulevard beautifully cool.

There's a combination of elegant older buildings and plazas, intriguing narrow mediaeval lanes with bursts of colour (many tram related) everywhere.

Our hotel - Le Mistral, named no doubt after the famous cold, dry wind that blows from the north-west down through Provence. There's nothing cold about the weather in Montpellier today! 

At one edge of the old town, an impressive aqueduct and triumphal arch.

Neil finds it very hard to go past a tram without extolling and appreciating it!

At dusk and at night the fountains and squares are illumined. All day, children play in these spurts of water, squealing with delight.

On our second morning, we enjoyed a leisurely brunch in this delightfully cool, comfortable and colourful café which allowed time for stillness, reading and reflection.

At the end of this lane, we glimpsed the steeple of St Anne's church, now converted into a contemporary arts space.

Once again, cafés cropped up in every nook and cranny of the city. 

So French ... so enticing!

Late on our last afternoon we stumbled across the Cathedral of Saint Pierre, which is huge but remarkably unobtrusive in the city. Interestingly, it's located down off the hilltop (unlike most cathedrals). When we entered, gentle, beautiful music was being played on the grand organ in preparation for Mass, which was soon to begin. Note the extraordinary pointed pillars guarding the west door - unlike anything we've seen before. The building attached to the left side of the cathedral is the Faculty of Medicine - one of the oldest in Europe. We wondered if there was originally some kind of hospital attached to the church. 

Walking the narrow alley ways of the old town, we began to notice the occasional pilgrimage marker forged into the pavement. Something within stirs at this sight!

The manse or presbytery of the church of Saint Roch has become a pèlerin hostel for pilgrims on the chemin du piémont-pyrénéen - the route we commenced walking from Carcassonne this time last year.

The main stained glass window inside the église Saint-Roch de Montpellier seems to be an image of the town cathedral - note the pointed pillars again.

Saint Roch himself, the patron saint of Montpellier, lived from 1295-1327. He was a traveller or pilgrim, and a healer who cared for those struck by disease. According to Wikipedia, he seems to have an omnibus portfolio as a saint - he is the patron of bachelors, diseased cattle, dogs, falsely accused people, invalids, Istanbul, surgeons, tile-makers, grave-diggers, second-hand dealers, apothecaries and (wait for it), pilgrims!! He is invoked against epidemics, cholera, plague, skin diseases and knee problems (as befits a pilgrims' saint)! Indeed, he is depicted here in the church as a pilgrim, with staff, shell, cloak and boots (note too the rather fetching knees)!!

The hostel has a quiet, cool courtyard to the side, complete with a pomegranate tree, pigeons and parrots.

We awoke this morning to the news that Wendell Berry has died at the age of 92. Writer, poet, environmentalist and farmer, Berry was an advocate for the earth and compassionate society. He is much loved by many at Benedictus. We are grateful for all he has helped us to see and we conclude this post with some of his words.

Sabbaths 1993 - I 

No, no, there is no going back. 

Less and less you are 

that possibility you were. 

More and more you have become 

those lives and deaths 

that have belonged to you. 

You have become a sort of grave 

containing much that was 

and is no more in time, beloved 

then, now, and always. 

And so you have become a sort of tree 

standing over a grave. 

Now more than ever you can be 

generous toward each day 

that comes, young, to disappear 

forever, and yet remain 

unaging in the mind. 

Every day you have less reason 

not to give yourself away.