49. Baamonde to Sabados dos Moxes

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Three words to describe today’s stage: ‘wet, windy, cold’ (Neil). ‘Wet, wet, wet’ (David). ‘Singing in the rain’ (Eva - not strictly three words but expressing great Camino spirit). The common theme here is rain and there was plenty of it today. It didn’t pour but basically it never stopped either. We got very wet. Having said that, much of the path was really delightful - winding woody trails. 

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Before any photos of today though, here’s one from last night - moi trying to sing the Spanish menu to the tune of Hey Jude. Needless to say, it was a hilarious disaster!! 

Photo courtesy of Robin (Netherlands)

And another of the crew gathered in the cafe for breakfast - dancing despite the weather!!

Back to today’s stage. Did I mention that it was wet?? It was raining when we walked out the albergue door at 6.30 in the morning, it was raining when we walked into the Monasterio de Sabados at 4.00 in the afternoon, and it rained every minute between. Not pouring rain, more like a drizzle that eventually soaks you to the bone.

Mindful of the old expression that ‘some people walk in the rain and some people just get wet’, we gave ourselves to the walk seeking not to resist. It was a tough day but also satisfying. Just look at those cheery faces!!

Photo courtesy of David (England)

I’m actually talking to Sarah on the phone as this photo was taken. That was nice. 

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Photo courtesy of David (England)

Photo courtesy of Eva (Netherlands)

It was mostly too wet to get the camera out so just a few photos today, including the two above shared my walking companions for today. The next two are from Eva, of me walking into the Monastereo at Sabados.

I couldn’t resist this final shot of socks drying on the chair in the cafe where we had dinner. This is such a pilgrim practice - drying gear whenever and wherever you get the chance!

The forecast is for rain to continue all night, and all day tomorrow and the next day, and the next. We’ll see what unfolds but basically it’s a case of, if you can’t get out of it, you may as well get into it. And since we have to be out of this albergue by 9.00am tomorrow that’s what we’ll do.

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Buenas noches, amigos, and thanks so much for all your encouraging comments. I really appreciate you following along.

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48. As Paredes to Baamonde

 ‘Meevaller’ is the Dutch word for better than expected. 

I was casting around with fellow pilgrims for words to describe today’s stage and this is what Eva (from Netherlands) offered, and it fits. All the forecasts for today predicted rain. The rain came but it was, well, better than expected in terms of how much. My experience of rain in Galicia is of monsoonal amounts but, in fact, it was pretty light rain for most of the day. I don’t think we’ve seen the last of it, but it certainly wasn’t heavy, which makes walking much easier. 

Also, the terrain was mild. Gentle and meandering is how I’d describe the path, through fields, woodlands and small villages. Really, very pleasant as you can see from these photos.

There’s no question I was feeling tired towards the end of the stage (partly accumulated fatigue) but the path was good and my legs held up.

So here I am in a slightly damp (the rain is increasing now) Baamonde, in an albergue with 76 beds, many of them occupied. It seems we (the little crew from As Padres) have caught up to a larger bubble of pilgrims who were a little further ahead of us. As I type this, there are pilgrims sprawled out in beds across the floor, some of them snoring loudly. There is wet weather gear dangling over every rail, wire and hook drying. 

This may not sound like five star accommodation or particularly appealing to those that like creature comforts (which I certainly do!) but hey, it could be worse. There could have been a flood, or the albergue could have been closed, or there could have been no eating option in town. 

I’m hopeful of a meal a little later with some Camino friends for company and then, of good night’s sleep. The last milestone said there were 101 kilometres to Santiago. Tomorrow is a 41 kilometre stage and there is the prospect of more rain, but hey, it could be worse. After that, there are only two stages to walk, and each a measly 30 kilometres. What’s not to like about that??!

And now - dinner!

‘Meevaller’. That says it all. 

Buen camino, amigos.

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47. Lourenzá to As Paredes

‘Once more unto the breach, dear friends, once more…’. 

And so another day begins. Rising, packing, and walking. At 7.00 am, I met up with David coming from his pension and we grabbed a quick coffee and tostada in the nearest open cafe. From there the path turned immediately up, the first climb of the day. Guess who? caught in the blinding beam of David’s head torch.

Photo courtesy of David (England)

The church of Santiago, not the cathedral!!

The first town we came to was Mondoñedo. It has a much bigger church (early gothic with a later baroque facade), indeed this is a cathedral! Building began in 1230 and it sits nestled in the heart of the town. 

There are big celebrations happening in Mondoñedo this weekend, apparently the oldest festival in Galicia, involving lots of horses and no doubt plenty of dressing up. Alas, we came and went too early to take part in anything. In fact, when we arrived the town was barely waking up.

Photo courtesy of David (England)

From Mondoñedo, the path led upwards to the great high plain that is most of Spain.

It was a long, hard climb but I think it is the last significant climb of this route. Anyway, here’s me triumphant at breaching the summit.

Photo courtesy of Robin (Netherlands)

From the top of the climb was a relatively relaxing stroll through rolling Galician hills and dales to today’s destination.

Photo courtesy of Robin (Netherlands)

I wonder if these two are heading for more horse festivities In Mondoñedo? Wherever they were going, they weren’t mucking around

Tonight, I’m staying in this delightful rural hostel in As Paredes. 

Makeshift treatment for a footsore pilgrim. This kind of scene is not unusual on camino!

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It was a relaxing late afternoon chatting with new pilgrim friends at the hostel. And then we gathered around a huge long table to share a hearty pilgrim menu - empanada, salad, lentil soup, tortilla and rice pudding. 

And now it’s 8.10pm here. Definitely time for bed!

Buenas noches, amigos.

💤💤💤

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46. Rebadeo to Lourenzá

Hola everyone and thank you for all your affirming comments yesterday. I continue to improve health wise and hope that I might be back to normal before too long. 

🙏

As I write this, I am lying in my bunk at the municipal albergue in Lourenzá - the Xunta de Galicia Pilgrims Hostel. It costs 10€ to stay here for the night and I would describe it as an ‘honest’ albergue, functional and adequate. The shower has half a door but hot water, the beds are covered in plastic but firm enough, there’s a power point to charge your phone, a sink to wash your clothes and a line in the sun, at least partially, to dry them. 

This latter feature is particularly helpful given the forecast for the coming days. As you will know if you’ve been following along, we pilgrims on the Camino del Norte have had an extraordinarily good weather window these past few weeks. Indeed, don’t think I’ve used my rain jacket so far this month. 

Alas, that is all about to change. We will hopefully get one more dry day tomorrow but on Sunday, heavy rain is predicted. And then, it looks like rain for the rest of the week. At that point dry gear becomes a distant memory.

The walking day started as it always does in northwestern Spain in October, in the dark. By 8.30am in is just starting to get light.

When day did dawn it was a beautiful sunny one.

For some reason, I saw more pilgrims on the path than any other day since we began walking.

Note David is still wearing his head torch here, which along with his walking still makes him look something like a Viking harpoonist!

The path itself was rolling and rural, passing through the occasional hamlet. Corn harvesting was in full swing. The first and only open cafe (apart from one in Ribadeo where we scored a cheeky early coffee and tostada) was at the 24 kilometre mark. By then it was close to lunchtime so a bunch of us opted for a menu del dia. This is more than adequate for the day, so relieves the pressure of trying to find food before 8.00pm, which is as early as most restaurants in Spain open.

Sheep and sheep dog in the morning sun.

One feature of the Camino in Galicia is that all the way markers record the distance remaining to Santiago, down to the metre!! As of this evening, I am precisely 162.347 kilometres from the cathedral.

Lourenzá has a slightly worn feel it, with a very baroque looking church, which (like most churches in Spain) was locked and looking slightly forlorn.

So, just to work you up, a view of the albergue, complete with our pilgrim washing drying happily on the line!!

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Which reminds me, I better go and bring mine in before the dew starts falling and soaks it all again!!

Until tomorrow, buenas noches, dear reader.

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