07 October 2025

35. Santillana to San Vicente de la Barquera

I start today’s blog with a picture of a fine eucalypt that appeared on the way just as it was getting light. There are now many eucalyptus trees in Spain and Portugal, which has turned out to be a mixed blessing, given their capacity to burn in bushfires (becoming more prevalent here as the climate changes). To Australian eyes, these are beautiful trees and this one particularly caught my attention this morning. 


Early on, the path wound through the coastal hinterland, through little villages, forests and fields. It was mostly very quiet and peaceful.



Trumpet flowers are a feature of village gardens in these parts.


This church was pretty striking too. Most of the churches are built of plain stone. This one, as you can see, was brightly painted.



There was quite a bit of bike path walking today too, particularly on sections nearer the beaches.


As I approach the western edge of Cantabria the Picos de Europa mountains are coming increasingly into view. Wow, they look huge and rugged.


Not sure about this!


Back near the beach, with a nice left hand break. 🏄‍♂️




Three cows on a hill.


And there’s the destination for today in the distance - San Vicente.


Eventually, I took to the beach, figuring hard sand would be easier to walk on and flatter than the road leading to San Vicente. It was a delightful change of scenery and vibe.




I wondered if one of these guys might be swap a wetsuit and board for my boots and backpack but they didn’t seem particularly interested in anything I had to offer. 


So I pressed on, back to the road and this long crossing of the inlet.


From there it was a short steep climb to the hostel where I received a warm welcome. Behind the hostel, on the highest part of the hill stands an ancient church, surrounded by very old defensive walls. I didn’t go into the church as they were charging an entrance fee but the view from the walls was stunning (and note another grand  old tree, an oak this time).





San Vicente is also the official starting point for the Camino Lebaniego, which heads into the hills towards the monastery of Santo Torino de Liébana, one of the few sanctuaries in Christendom where pilgrims can obtain plenary indulgence!! Mmm!!




I’ll need to make sure I follow the right signs tomorrow or may end up in those high hills quicker than I’d like.

San Vicente in the evening.


And, as the sun sets slowly in the west,
buen camino 
friends.
👣


🌗 🧡 🌓










 

3 comments:

  1. More chocolate box scenery! Like walking around inside a tourist brochure.

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  2. I agree with your perfect description, Charles. Walking on the beach is so therapeutic. On my road trip I have seen so many wonderful eucalypts.

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  3. Dear Neil,
    I am amazed at the 'selfies' you manage to take! Methinks you are becoming readier to conclude the journey and see the beauty in the eucalypt. What a grand tree you photographed here! India has Eucalypts in so many places, eucalypt oil is a real industry there. I was surprised at how few pilgrims you encountered on this section. Rest well tonight.

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