It was a pretty restless crew in the albergue this morning. I was woken at about 6.15 by the door opening and closing, and general shuffling about. Once this starts there’s no chance of any more rest so I decided to rise and leave. It was pitch dark outside so nothing to see until sunrise which is closer to eight than seven.
The first few kilometres were in the hinterland behind Castro Urdiales but as it drew light the path led back to the coast for a time.
After this beach the path wound inland again, in and up with a couple of serious climbs.
I passed through a number of small villages, but alas, none offering anything by way of breakfast. Eventually, after four hours of walking I struck gold - a village with an open cafe!
Energised by a rest, coffee and pastry I pressed on towards the coast, now brilliant blue in the sunshine.
One more headland to climb and cross and I began the descent into Laredo, another seaside town, built almost entirely on a long sand spit. (I didn’t actually take a photo so here’s one from Google images.)
It had been my intention to sleep in a monastery in Laredo but I realised that in order to progress west towards Santander, one needed either to walk for miles around a complex estuary or to catch a little ferry across the 300 metre channel at the other end of the sand spit. I didn’t fancy the long detour and suspected that crossings wouldn’t start much before nine tomorrow morning so I decided to press on and try for an afternoon ferry to Santoña.
Before that, however, a decent meal. I found a nice little place serving a menu del dia in Laredo and decided to go for it. Wow, it was fantastic!
Strengthened by a hearty lunch, I walked the six kilometre sand spit and found the little ferry waiting right at the end. It was a gruelling walk in the sun (after a demanding morning) but the crossing was very pleasant.
The ferry.
From there it was a short walk around the edge of Santoña to the local youth hostel (come sailing club, come gym), which offered me a bed in the dormitory for the princely sum of 7.50€.
It feels good to have paused for the day, to be showered and resting. I’m trying to stay up until 8pm but I’m not sure I’ll make it!! Ah well, no doubt it will be another early rise tomorrow. How far to go? I’m not really sure. I’ll see what the day brings.
Buen Camino, amigos.
🐠 🐟 🐡👣 🐡 🐟 🐠
So good to see that you have enjoyed a nourishing meal. There's nothing like a ferry ride to help you to catch your breath. Go well, Neil.
ReplyDeleteI love your comments, Elizabeth. Always so apt and so compassionate!! I was very glad about the meal too, but also loved the photos of the boats and those stunning coastal views. Walk on, dear pilgrim and navigator! Love Sarey
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