Thursday 8 September 2022

Outeiro to Sigüeiro

As we might have expected, last night proved a challenge to sleep in our crowded albergue. In fact, Sarah barely managed any amidst the cacophonous snoring, the bleeping of devices, the all-too-nearness of the toilets and the mosquitoes, and Neil fared not much better. A series of alarms went off at about 6am, which failed to wake their owners and so carried on for several minutes each, and another series set off at 7am. We had packed our bags the night before, and decided simply to get dressed and slip out into the still dark morning. It was a relief to break out into the cool day, just the two of us!

Escaping the snores, 
alarms, and much breathed air, a
fresh dark path beckons.



The first 2km we walked in the dark, hearing the small birds twittering in the hedges and trees. There was only one cafe in the neighbourhood, and we were braced for the possibility that it could be closed. But it wasn’t and we enjoyed a great morning coffee and tostadas, by which time the dawn had broken.



The way continued alternately through woodland paths and country lanes, and we saw no one. Where do all the pilgrims come from and disperse to?







We stopped a couple of times to empty stones out of our shoes.



And tried to be mindful of the sights and smells of Galicia - only one day’s walking after this. Here is one of the typical grain stores.







We walked steadily for about 12km, and eventually came close to Sigueiro. We hoped to stop here for the night, if we could find a bed. After walking through the outlying industrial zone, the path led over a pretty bridge.





And then we were here, by just on 11am. We had a bit of a task to find a bed, since a couple of the pilgrim hostels were booked out. But we found a place in a lovely, quiet albergue which seems to be ‘off the grid’ in terms of most of the pilgrim apps. There are ten beds here in total and so far we are sharing with just two others. We’ve had a delicious menu del dia lunch and are sitting peacefully on a small terrace with the albergue dog, Luna, pottering around on the grass. Tomorrow we walk into Santiago for the last time this trip, and it’s nice to have a space to catch up with ourselves before then.

The final photo comes with a warning that ‘some viewers may find this image distressing’! Neil thought you should see the large blister that has ridden on my toe for over a week now ... it doesn’t hurt at all, since I tape it and pack it with hikers’ wool before walking. I’m too much of a wimp to burst it, and at this stage it seems better to let it resolve itself in its own time. Mind you, it’s shown no inclination to resolve itself thus far, so when the walking is finished I may have to bite the bullet. I promise not to bring it home with me!!



Buen Camino,
Sarah and Neil

6 comments:

  1. Oh my goodness. That’s some blister!!!
    So lovely to share your journey although those nights of little sleep must be quite a challenge. You’ll look forward to the quiet of Jersey.
    Enjoy the last day’s walk. Love Kx

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  2. All the desert day
    Flies cluster in nostrils, eyes
    At nightfall, nowhere.

    All the woodland day
    Pilgrims disappear. Our way
    Is quiet... until..

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  3. Blister finds a toe,
    Builds castle in pilgrim flesh—
    Unpopped, it is proud

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  4. Glad you’ve got some p&q. I found the hardest thing about mountaineering was no sleep! Cold wet and frightened I could cope with, but up at 2am after four hours sleep? Nah. I prefer watercolours now. Charles.

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  5. Not long to go now, oh hardy pilgrims! (My philosophy is pop, disinfect, bandaid and it will all be done with in a day or two.) All strength for the final leg. SJP xoxox

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  6. My understanding is that is best not to pop a blister, in case of infection. Best wishes with that. xo Elizabeth R

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