14. Vallacañas - desolation row

There are days on the Camino when nothing really goes according to plan and these days can be pretty stretching. Today was like that for me.

I set off bright and early from El Toboso, which is a nice little town, more monumental and historical and working from the looks of things. I said farewell to Don Quijote, who was still pledging undying love to Dulcinea and wondered through the town looking for somewhere for breaky. No such luck - everything closed.

That’s okay, I thought. I can walk on to the next town which is only 8 kms or so.

I took a brief pause to take off warm gear along the way.

Unfortunately, there was no bar on the way in the next town, and by the time I realised it would have been to much backtracking to go and find one. So, on to the next town. This stretch was a dog for me, the arrows went in two directions and the route I took ended up being along the main road for 5 kms - noise, dodging trucks, hard surface etc.

Thankfully, there was a bar open in the next town and I got myself a bocadillo for brunch. I also bumped into Danièle and Jean-Pierre who had been delivered back on track from the hospital. JP had seven stitches in his chin but nothing is broken after his bad fall yesterday, so hopefullly they are good to keep going. There was still 10 kms to go to the scheduled stop for the day and we planned to meet there.

I set off and,  in the midst of dust farm roads all criss crossing and not way marked, I managed to take a rather longer route (add 2 to 3 extra kms!). There is virtually no wheat or barley in this area, just grapes and olives, so the landscape is much drier looking.

There are also lots of stones, which also gives it a harsher feel.

When I reached the scheduled stop town, Villa de Don Fadrique, it was all pretty desolate. I spent the best part of two hours looking for D and JP to no avail (more kms in the hot sun!). I sussed out the albergue, and it was in an indoor sports stadium that had definitely seen better days. You had to get the key from the police station but of course by now they were all on siesta. I decided in the end to give the whole place the flick walk on to the next town in hope of something more promising (another 11 kms!). 

The one nice thing about that desolate place was that I saw my first stork nesting - mind you, the chimney looks pretty desolate too. I hope that little family will be safe up there.

They really do keep the goats with the sheep here.

So, here I am, finally, in Vallacañas in a hotel room with sheets and a towel and wifi. It’s been a tough day and I’ve walked around 40 kms again but I am here and it is comfortable. And, guess what, I just got an email from D and JP and they decided to walk on too. No wonder I couldn’t find them!! So, they are here too. Ah well, the day is done and every one is safe and stowed - that’s a good outcome in the end.

Neils