17. Toledo

Today it felt like I needed to make one more big effort to get to Toledo and the end of the first stage of my camino. It was a long stage and so I girded my loins and set forth as the sun was beginning to rise over Mora. There was even some colour in the sky this morning, thanks to the clouds that were still hanging around after last night’s rain.

I’ve seen hundreds of these guys throughout the walk, but none had been as keen to have their photo taken as this fella.

This morning I also had a ‘burning bush’ experience!

And saw my first snake - albeit an ex snake!

Security strategies ancient...

... and modern.

There were some quite isolated parts in today’s walk even though I was getting close to Toledo.

My view at lunchtime.

And after a couple more hours of walking I caught my first sights of Toledo.

By the time I reached the edge of the Rio Tajo I had to run the gauntlet of buses packed with people taking selfies against the backdrop of Toledo. I was reminded that as well as a destination for pilgrims this town is also a tourist destination and it seems I am in the height of the season.

As you can see from the photos, Toledo is built on the side of a steep hill. Hot and weary after walking 38 kms I braced myself for the climb up hundreds of steps that take you into the town.  When I got to the top, I was very hot and very thirsty. I pooped into the least tourist looking bar I could find and ordered a cerveza and limon (the most refreshing drink I have found on the way). It went down in a matter of seconds. Then I asked the barman if he could direct me to the youth hostel/albergue where I’d be sleeping. He pointed back down the steps and to the hill on the other side. I couldn’t believe it! I had climbed all these steps unnecessarily. Oh well, such is life. Mind you, the youth hostel is in that castle in the background of this photo of the bridge - not bad. I’m here now and it is the most spacious and comfortable youth hostel I have ever seen. I’m sharing a room with Uli who has also arrived, and, guess what, it has just started raining again. So far, I have not had to put on my poncho for the whole of this first stage and for that I am very grateful.

And, so the first stage of this pilgrimage is completed. It has been an amazing walk across the plains of La Mancha. I have appreciated it immensely and I am glad for a break and a change of pace. Today, I developed a blister on my blister, so some time for recovery will make a realdifference. Tomorrow, I will explore this amazing old town and see what it has to share. 

Buen Camino, Neils