23. Ávila

We are currently residing in the historic city of Ávila, where the cathedral is the first Gothic cathedral in Spain (just in case anyone wanted to know). The walls of this old city are 2.5 kms around and there are eighty seven turrets, nine gates and a partridge in a pear tree (just kidding).

This is the one through which we entered.

It has been another nice day of walking. We began by descending further from the village of San Bartolomé into the much smaller hamlet of El Herradón, where there is a Roman puente of some note, but alas no open bar on this Sunday morning for second breakfast.

We also passed this fella on the way. He had a great face but looked a bit like an unmade bed (as Sarah’s dad would have said).

The next phase of the stage was a solid climb to the highest point on this Camino - over 1400 meters. It was a somewhat relentless slog up through a narrow valley - much clambering and occasional bog negotiating.

But rewarded with some great views.

The third stage took us across another delightful high plain, which we found relaxing after the solid climb.

After about four hours of walking we entered the little village of Tornadizos de Ávila, where we were greeted with buen caminos from four oldies sitting chatting on a bench.

After a refreshing cerveza and a queso bocadillo we continued on for the final ten kilometres into Ávila. This was mostly gentle and downhill so much appreciated at that stage of the day. In an hour or so we will be joined by our friend Keith Castle who will walk on with me (Neil) for another week or so.   Sarah will stay for the rest day here and then catch a train back to Madrid and a plane home to Canberra. It has been a delight to share this week of walking together. She has not missed a beat, despite some challenging stages but she is currently conked out on the bed somewhat exhausted from the adventure - her feet bearing almost as much tape as the walled perimeter of the city into which she has determinedly staggered.

Postlude.

Keith arrived and we went off to a bar in downtown Ávila, beyond the tourist prices. For a time we were the only three in the bar, together with a very loud TV playing some soapie. Then, all of a sudden, the bar was full of young people and outside a brass band was playing - it was as if we were in the middle of a fiesta with much noise and energy. And what a band! Check out what these guys are wearing!!

You never know what’s going to happen next in Spain. That’s part of the wonder of it all. Buen Camino, Neils and Sarah