Miño to Presedo

Last night we enjoyed being in a smaller albergue with a smaller group, and the chance to dry off our damp things and wash our clothes. The albergue looked out onto some interesting mud flats.

And here’s Sarah, writing the blog from the top bunk. PS. Almost every night Neil heroically sleeps in the top bunk - so this was just for ease of writing! PPS. when did it stop being a treat to sleep in the top bunk??!

Today was a walk in two parts. It rained heavily overnight and the rain continued this morning, alternating between gentle drizzle and heavier showers. Our ponchos made themselves useful, including as high vis gear crossing this railway bridge. This was one of those classic Spanish foot bridges that seem to go forever, depositing you about 10 metres from where you start.

Passing along a narrow lane, a gate opened into what looked like a secret garden. The giant tree inside was a eucalypt standing alone amidst tree acolytes in the form of plane trees.

This bridge was at the far end of the Mino estuary. When Neil clambered down the bank to take a photo, he noticed that the water was swarming with juvenile sharks. Could have been a nasty surprise if we’d been up for soothing our feet in the river!

Just around the corner, we came across this horse (looking, as Sarah’s father would have said, ‘like an unmade bed’!). The grass definitely looked greener on the other side of the fence to this one.

We continued on in the rain which varied in intensity, but the walking was pleasant all the same.

Misty, gentle damp

with sloshing soaking downpours.

Yes! The English way.

After just over 10km, we walked into Betanzos which was originally a Roman hill fort called Brigantium. It has a well preserved old town.

We stopped for coffee and caught up with some of our fellow pilgrims from last night’s albergue. Dealing with your wet rain gear is always a challenge in the cafe context!

The church of Santiago in Betanzos had a lovely simplicity in structure and its main windows, some typically garish side chapels and then, unexpectedly, this modern stained glass representing the pilgrim way.

After an early lunch, shared with an American pilgrim called Bart, the rain cleared. We had a really enjoyable path through woods, including many stands of eucalypt.

Perhaps it was the Aussie vibe in the landscape, but after the sharks came the (small) snake. Can you see his head and forked tongue?! He wrapped himself around Neil’s walking pole, and he was able to place him safely off the main path.

The church of San Esteban (Stephen).

We stopped for a snack at the cruciero opposite the gate. And then we had the final 4km to go.

Our resting place tonight is a 14 bed Municipal albergue in a tiny village along a country road. Basically there’s not much here, and the albergue itself has a slightly run down feel. But the sun is out and the breeze brisk, which means we’ve been able to dry our gear. As Neil says, that’s a good outcome for a day like today. A slightly overpriced meal at the local cafe completes the picture of our evening, but all is well!

On a sadder note, we heard yesterday that Neil’s uncle David (his aunt’s husband) died on the weekend just 10 days or so since we were to have seen him on Jersey. We think of him this evening, together with Pauline and her family.

Buen Camino,

Sarah and Neil