In the last two days, we’ve experienced the give and take of life on the road. Our late lunch/early dinner at the lone cafe near our albergue last night was in a lovely setting but we felt a little taken advantage of by its price and quality. Nevertheless, here’s one of the murals that adorned the walls.
By contrast, our late breakfast this morning was one of the most delightful experiences of hospitality we’ve had. It came after 10km, in an unpretentious roadside cafe. We were welcomed from the moment we walked through the door - our rain ponchos hung on a hat stand, our packs set on chairs, little stools provided so we could put our feet up, and the most delicious fresh bread, cheese and tomato, and coffee. Our hostess insisted on a photo - as if we were the only pilgrims she’d seen. But as we left, she was offering exactly the same attention to the next travellers through the door. Cafe Avelina was fantastic!
Our way there had been through more country lanes and eucalypt plantations. Here’s our horse of the day, already enjoying a hearty munch.
Rain was forecast but hadn’t yet arrived. The morning light sparkled on the young trees.
Pre-breakfast, we stopped for a few handfuls of nuts and a few squares of chocolate in this conveniently out of service bus station.
We later encountered the longest straight stretch of road we think we’ve seen here. See the road stretching back? We’ve just walked up it!!
In post-modern terms, I think this local park would be described as ‘pastiche’. As well as the dinosaur (pictured), which was helpfully loaded onto a wheeled trolley in case it needed to be moved, the same park boasted an imitation dolmen, two cruciero (ie. Jesus on the cross), some fountains, statues of St James, Mary and a horse’s head, with various sculpturally arranged pieces of rusting farm equipment!
In some ways, it was an uneventful day’s walking - intermittent showers of rain, not many villages nor fellow pilgrims. We arrived at the new Municipal albergue at Outreiro, with only four others here. We were hopeful of a very quiet night in the countryside! But after about an hour, there began a huge influx of other pilgrims and suddenly the beds were filling up, the shower water (literally) flowing out the door of the ill-designed bathroom. Oh, and did we mention there is no food available in this little settlement, and we’re about to head out for another 3km to find food!! But we’ve also just met a lovely German family and the rain has stopped. Blessed be the way.
By contrast, our late breakfast this morning was one of the most delightful experiences of hospitality we’ve had. It came after 10km, in an unpretentious roadside cafe. We were welcomed from the moment we walked through the door - our rain ponchos hung on a hat stand, our packs set on chairs, little stools provided so we could put our feet up, and the most delicious fresh bread, cheese and tomato, and coffee. Our hostess insisted on a photo - as if we were the only pilgrims she’d seen. But as we left, she was offering exactly the same attention to the next travellers through the door. Cafe Avelina was fantastic!
Our way there had been through more country lanes and eucalypt plantations. Here’s our horse of the day, already enjoying a hearty munch.
Rain was forecast but hadn’t yet arrived. The morning light sparkled on the young trees.
Pre-breakfast, we stopped for a few handfuls of nuts and a few squares of chocolate in this conveniently out of service bus station.
We later encountered the longest straight stretch of road we think we’ve seen here. See the road stretching back? We’ve just walked up it!!
In post-modern terms, I think this local park would be described as ‘pastiche’. As well as the dinosaur (pictured), which was helpfully loaded onto a wheeled trolley in case it needed to be moved, the same park boasted an imitation dolmen, two cruciero (ie. Jesus on the cross), some fountains, statues of St James, Mary and a horse’s head, with various sculpturally arranged pieces of rusting farm equipment!
In some ways, it was an uneventful day’s walking - intermittent showers of rain, not many villages nor fellow pilgrims. We arrived at the new Municipal albergue at Outreiro, with only four others here. We were hopeful of a very quiet night in the countryside! But after about an hour, there began a huge influx of other pilgrims and suddenly the beds were filling up, the shower water (literally) flowing out the door of the ill-designed bathroom. Oh, and did we mention there is no food available in this little settlement, and we’re about to head out for another 3km to find food!! But we’ve also just met a lovely German family and the rain has stopped. Blessed be the way.
Buen Camino,
Sarah and Neil
Graffiti shouts out
ReplyDeleteWe too have passed this way
And sheltered here.
Well I hope the meal was worth the 6km! Daft place to put the hostel. Charles.
ReplyDeleteNo food and more walking, oh no! Go well. xo Elizabeth R
ReplyDeleteQuieter trek but not uneventful … such hospitality and warmth brought tears to my eyes. Simplicity and profundity. So much appears in the quiet journey of the day? Manifesting in the loud exuberance of the night? Xx Deb
ReplyDelete