Thursday 1 June 2023

50. A Laxe to Ponte Ulla

The A Laxe albergue’s reputation for mosquitoes is well founded and I can confirm that (bar a few casualties slapped down by exasperated pilgrims) the mozzie population was extremely well fed last night!! Needless to say I am covered from head to toe in red spots today!!

As you will understand, I’m sure, with these bloodthirsty critters buzzing constantly in my ears and gorging on my flesh, there was no reason to stay in the albergue any longer than necessary this morning. As soon as others started to stir, I dressed and ducked out … into the mist. 









The first half of the stage was mostly through forest or on minor farm roads. The path was undulating as we climbed each ridge and then descended down into the next valley. Crossing one stream involved some very impressive Roman bridges.















At Silleda, I stopped for breakfast and waited for Fernando to catch up. There he is, filling in for Santiago!



The second half of the stage was mostly on the asphalt in more open country. As you can see, the sun even came out! 



In truth, we have been really fortunate with the weather. It rains each day but so far, always after we have arrived at our destination. 







The final stretch to Ponte Ulla was a long steep descent. These are hard on the knees so it was good to finish the stage on the banks of the rio Ulla.









As you may be able to see from this distance marker, we are just 21 kilometres from Santiago. Tomorrow, we will join pilgrims thronging into the cathedral plaza from all different Camino’s and directions. This is where this pilgrimage finishes for Fernando. My quest is to walk on to Finisterre, so I have four more stages. 



Meanwhile, there is time to wash, eat and rest. We each have our own room in a hostel, the only pilgrim accommodation in Ponte Ulla, and it feels fantastic - a clean dry towel, sheets, a blanket, somewhere to put your stuff, no water on the floor, and a comfortable bed with no one rustling a bag or snoring nearby - I could get used to this!! I’ve even managed to wash the clothes I’ve been walking in for the last four days and it looks like the rain will hold off long enough to get them dry. 

Buen Camino 
Neil🧡👣🧦👕👍

PS. Thank you, everyone, for your generous and supportive contributions to the blog. I am feeling moved by your kindness and company, and amazed that you’ve hung in with such a looong, and, let’s face it, somewhat repetitive adventure. It’s taken determination and commitment to keep going, especially these past couple of weeks, and you have given that too. Thank you, so much. 🙏 

7 comments:

  1. Be cautious in the Big Smoke!
    Fernando’s rucksack reminds me of the While Knight in Alice…who was garlanded about with pots and pans and multiple useful inventions.

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  2. Ps there have been some serious valleys over the last week or so - hard to sense the gradient from a photo of the path, but the photos of the bridges give the idea. Charles

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  3. What luxury you’ve found yourself in! Very pleased that your last 4 stages will be walked in cleanish clobber! Am sure the trolls and goblins will then appear! But only 4 more?? What will I do for my pre bed ritual when you stop?? 🧐🤷🏼‍♂️❤️👣Deb

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  4. What a remarkable journey! Ken

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  5. That steep descent into Ulla is a killer on the knees. Hope they woke up refreshed for the push into Santiago

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  6. Sure will miss 'travelling' with you. Although I've had it easy. Almost there. Love and prayers, Elizabeth R.

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  7. Goodness, I’m not sure I’m ready for Santiago yet. Was it Deb who quoted the journey not the destination? KAS

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