Tonight we are in a pilgrim hostel 800m out of St Jean Pied-de-Port, heading for the hills. It was a steep climb to get here but it is beautifully quiet above the town and with wonderful views.
Our day began near St Just Ibarre, with a generous breakfast at Chez Sandra, featuring her home made jams and bread!
It was a gentle rural path, past sheep, streams and chestnuts. (The grass is always greener on the other side of the fence!!)
Mist covered the hills and fields in the first couple of hours of walking.
It lifted just in time for the massive climb of our day.
The view from the top was awe inspiring and encompassed a wide populated valley and layers of mountains beyond. We revelled in the sense of it all.
Large flocks of birds wheeled below - we think they may have been storks.
And finally to the gate to the old town of St Jean - La Porte Frances.
Twelve years and two days ago, Sarah stood in this very spot, marking the start of our first pilgrimage on the Camino Frances.
Here’s the photo of that time (note the scrofulous toe, now healed, I promise!!)
We found it very moving to be here again, reflecting on the meaning of that time and all that’s happened since.
Queues at the pilgrim office of people about to start. We had been braced for St Jean to feel very crowded and hectic, but it was calm and mellow and a joy to wander in the old town.
After picking up supplies for tomorrow, we went up to our hillside hostel to check in and wash. This evening we came back down for a celebratory dinner. It was a gorgeous warm evening, lovely for eating outside and enjoying the life all around.
Tomorrow we continue on the GR 10 for at least a couple of days of high country walking. What a privilege to be in this place!
Bon chemin Sarah, Sarah and Neil
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So much has happened in those twelve years and many of us are so grateful for all that you’ve offered us over that time. Go well, my friends. Kx
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