9. Portet d’Aspet to Saint-Pé d’Ardet

Oh, the places you go! We began today’s stage at chez Michelle and we end at chez Frederic, and in between one of the most beautiful stages we have walked on Camino. 

Michelle prepared a simple sustaining breakfast very early for us and our fellow pilgrim, Christina.

She stamped our credentials with her own hand drawn bear as well as the official stamp. Bears turned out to be her thing and may be the only Pyrenean bears we see!!

And then we were off up the village street and immediately began climbing.

Despite our effective rest day yesterday, Sarah was still under the weather with a cold and cough, but the first part of the stage was simply unmissable. 

The path wound first up the road to the Col d’Aspet, which we know from the Tour de France.

We passed a memorial to the refugees who escaped across the French-Spanish border during the war and those who aided them. Apparently the Gestapo did periodic sweeps of this area to disrupt the passage across the Pyrenees.

The path continued to climb the mountain on a soft forest path. 

Spectacular views began to unfold.

There was still a lot of mountain above us at this point, but this was the high point of the route - the highest part of our whole walk.

11km of downhill walking ensued (dropping 700 metres)

We passed through a stunning forest with incredibly steep drop offs. There were places where if we stumbled and fell, we would have been tumbling for a long, long time!

Thankfully, we kept our feet.

A breather at the bottom and then there was about 13km to go on the stage. We decided that Sarah would continue by Uber or taxi rather than push on. Easier said than done in this remote area. Just as we were wondering what to do, the Camino provided in the form of Andy who suddenly emerged walking down the road and arranged for a lift from a French couple who generously offered their help. Neil continued on the stage and fortunately missed being hit by this oak branch, which suddenly fell on the path ahead!!

A foot bath in icy cold water helped for the last five kilometres. 

Tonight’s accommodation is in an ancient stone and timber building, with huge rough hewn beams. We have a room and bathroom to ourselves, and very comfortable beds! Frederic, our host, has been lovingly working to restore this place for the best part of 15 years. He looks like an ageing hippy, drives and old Kombi, and is currently playing Deep Purple for us as we sit on this gorgeous balcony looking towards some of the highest Pyrenean peaks. Wow!!

And just over the edge of those peaks, the Spanish border.

In fact, Frederic mentioned that sometimes he drives over the ridge for some tapas!! Nous comprenons!!