8. Orgibet to Portet d’Aspet

We woke this morning still glowing from the gift of last night in our beautiful pilgrim refuge and our magnificent dinner. It’s hard to convey how special these completely unexpected graces of the road feel, and how they encourage trust in the unfolding journey. 

After yesterday’s soft drizzle, this morning was clear and full of light. 

Off we strode, in search of more hills to climb!

We had also decided to do a shorter stage based on the availability of accommodation on the path ahead (some places are closed because the operators are taking their vacation after the busy summer season).

Another early bramble attack (just a flesh wound!!).

Another beautiful little mountain village, bathed in morning light.

Ivy art. Wonderful!

Let the climbing begin. 

👣

👣

👣

It’s hard to capture the steepness of some of these climbs. There were sections that we estimate were over 30 degrees from horizontal. Whatever the angle is, they slow your step, sap your energy, raise your heart rate and have you puffing profusely. Slow and steady is the order of the day.

A deep cave in the hillside. 

Fruits of the forest, or really the village. These plums were sweet and delicious.

Saint Lary, a classic Pyrenean village with a stream gurgling through the centre and houses lining each side.

What a place to sit and rest and take it all in on a glorious Autumn morning!

More climbing and more tiny hamlets.

A friendly French feline.

Our destination comes into view - Portet d’Aspet.

We are staying in a family home in which the attic has been converted into an auberge. It is a maze of beds, couches, cupboards (and there’s also a huge deer’s head mounted on the end wall!) and Michelle, our elderly host is warm and welcoming. Her kitchen is full of bits and pieces, including a tub with 40 litres(!!) of fresh home harvested miel (honey). I think we get to sample some with breakfast tomorrow. 

Mmm 🐝🍯

It has been lovely to have an afternoon just to be in this village and have time to take stock and catch up with ourselves. After 8 days of walking, our bodies are appreciating it too! 

As for impressions and reflections thus far … we’ve been struck by the relative depopulation of the villages and lack of services, and yet we have found still a little network of hospitality for pilgrims made up of municipal or church run auberges, private gites and householders who offer welcome and sustenance. The chemin here is low key and yet amazingly well marked by local volunteers and we have met with many kindnesses as people greet us or even go out of their way to show us directions or bring the necessary key. The path has been a mixture of minor and occasionally more major roads, with tracks across and around fields or cutting deeply through the forests. The forests themselves are a joy - broad leaf trees in the main - oak, beech and birch, and their leaves give a thick carpet, kind to the feet and cushioning Sarah’s fall this morning. The soundscape is rich too - the bells around the necks of sheep, goats and cows, the birds in hedgerows, and in this Basque Country water running in rocky streams or through village fountains and washing places. 

Tomorrow we will cross the highest pass on our path, the Col Portet d’Aspet - a climb featured in many a Tour de France. We’ve watched the peloton cross this pass on television at home in Bruce on several occasions. To think we are here to walk across it ourselves is an amazing thought.

We are grateful for all who in different ways are enabling us to have this time and do this walk. Thank you for your support and encouragement.

👣🙏👣