4. Mirepoix to Pamiers

We had a longer stage today so got up early at 5.30am to be at the boulangerie for opening at 6am. Alas, we were so early that the bread had not finished baking - we had coffee but no pastries for breakfast! Meanwhile the market was setting up in the town square and as we started out we were able to buy goats cheese to go with our day old baguette, saved for lunch. 

We started walking in the dark, head lamps on.

About two kilometres on, just as we were congratulating ourselves on our good start, a sudden realisation dawned. Sarah’s walking poles had been left behind at the cheese stall… aaagggh. To go back or not?? Neil sprang nobly into action and started sprinting back to the town, Sarah minding the packs on the side of the road. As our friend Charles puts it:

‘Gotta get the mental list bedded in. It’s amazing how keen on escape a small number of possessions becomes.’

After about 40 minutes we and the poles were reunited and progress resumed, dawn having broken on a greyish, drizzly morning. Recent rain has made this river run very muddy but we got over the causeway without incident.

After a couple of hours (and an extra 4km for Neil) we were ready for a wee break. This bus shelter in a small village was a great place to shelter from the drizzle, share a banana and patch hot spots on feet.

Not long afterwards we came to Vals, another small village famous for its 11th century church. 

The church is built into the rock. You enter it by stairs as if into a cave, and inside there are amazing frescoes on the roof and walls.

The decor of the nearby cafe is inspired by the church with modern frescoes painted on its stone walls, and a blessing of the Holy Spirit written on the rafters.

These guys have their heads bowed in the rain.

We walked on road for a large part of today’s 8 hour, 34km stage, avoiding some of the muddy and slippery mountain paths.

The final two or three hours were on a ‘voie verte’ or green way for bikes and horses. It was a welcome change from dodging oncoming traffic, and much easier underfoot.

Lunch - that goats cheese and baguette - consumed happily on the side of the path.

What a picnic spot!!

We met Andy just as we were returning to the way - resplendent with his red rain-repelling, speed-enhancing, fantastically fashionable umbrella!

After what seemed a long last few kilometres, we passed the old Roman bridge and entered the outskirts of Pamiers - which themselves seemed to go on forever!!

Finally we arrived at the main part of town, just in time to be stopped at a level crossing.

We are staying tonight in the parochial accommodation for pilgrims provided by the diocese of Pamiers - very basic with clutter everywhere, but with everything we need to cook, wash and rest. We have been joined tonight by another pilgrim - Jonathan from England now living in France . The town itself has a beautiful main square which we visited while stocking up on supplies for another long rural stage tomorrow. 

We have covered  about 100kms since leaving Carcassone and we are grateful that our legs and spirits are holding up despite all the exertion. Tomorrow is another long stage, slightly daunting but doable we think. Stay tuned to see if we are right!!

And now to sleep.

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