5. Pamiers to Le Mas d’Azil

 We rose early this morning (we had a loooong stage ahead!!) though by the time we breakfasted, had a final chat with Andy (who was planning a shorter stage - has plenty of time for his walk - but wanted to say farewell) and Jonathan, and dealt with Sarah being stung on the finger by a wasp which had found its way into her boot overnight (!!!), the dawn had broken before we left the gite. 

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Passing the Cathedral in the early morning light, we were struck by the silhouette of this amazing gryphon carved into the base of the cathedral tower.

Beyond the cathedral lay the old city gate. We passed through, crossed the river and were soon rising steadily above the town.

Clear skies today.

Along the edge of the river, we came across this ancient church, seemingly out of nowhere. So many churches in this part of the world, so grand, so old and mostly so empty…

After a couple of kilometres traversing the edge of the river, we came to the first of the day’s climbs - up through a forest, steep and slippery in parts. And as we ascended, great views back over Pamiers.

Once we got to the top our path unfolded across lovely country roads. The air was still, soft and sweet, and just the right temperature for walking. 

And, as if from nowhere, le peloton, racing past and gone!

Our first corn field.

After two and a bit hours of walking, we came to our first village. 

We’ve become used in France to being effectively in a food desert during the day - none of the small villages seem to have shops or cafe-bars as they do in Spain. You have to carry all your supplies and the chances of a morning coffee are extremely remote! So it was this morning, but the local church had made a real effort to offer hospitality to pilgrims. There was a stamp for our pilgrim passport, and some welcome seating on the church porch - a good place for a banana stop. 

The way continued past fields of crops and contented cows, through a couple of small hamlets, and then up, up, up on a forest path - one hour and fifteen minutes of continuous climbing!!

This truck loading pine logs was near the top and we had a cheery greeting from the driver. 

The rest of the day is a photographic desert! 

Because we wanted to make the extra distance today, we walked a little across country on minor roads. It was tiring walking but we enjoyed lunch in a little glen by the river, aching feet soothed by cool flowing water. 

A final couple of hours along minor roads being resurfaced by a hardy and cheery road crew brought us to Le Mas d’Azil, a small town built of old, half timbered buildings, an unpretentious central plaza, and an intriguing onion domed Catholic Church. 

We had great help from the locals to get into the pilgrim gite, provided by the local Protestant church. The key is held by Yvonne who we eventually tracked down through the local tourist office, although not before the incredibly friendly elderly lady next door had also attempted to call!

There is nothing fancy about these gites, but they are amazingly welcome facilities. They are usually a hitch porch of beds and bits of old crockery but we get a shower, a roof, a place to wash and hang sweaty gear and cook a simple meal, and it is all for a donation - whatever we want to give. They are enabled by volunteers, mostly elderly villagers, and we feel very grateful for the hospitality of these people and spaces. We are the only ones here tonight, so we even get to choose a bed - not to hard, not too soft, but just right (well, pretty darn close anyway!)

So good night dear readers, and thank you too for your support.

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