A Fonsagrada to O Cádavo

Ah Galicia, forecast one day, raining the next!

Our Camino app rather dauntingly advised us that this stage ‘is arguably the most difficult of the route, and possibly the reason for the nickname the leg wrecker. Allow for extra time, especially after a rain since many of the sections become thick with mud.’

With a warning like that, we were understandably a little trepidatious, as we had rain through the night and it was still raining this morning. And as well as his previously documented ills, Neil has developed a shin splint in his inside left ankle! Nevertheless we wanted to give it a go, so off we set. And actually, in the end, it didn’t feel to us as difficult a stage as had been suggested. After about two hours, we hit the top of our first long climb of the day, where we stopped for some chocolate at the little chapel marking the medieval pilgrim hospital on the site.

The hospital was founded by Peter the Cruel (we don’t know how he came by his name!) in 1360, and there are quite a few buildings remaining. It was apparently still in use in the 20th century.

There are dolmens behind the hospital, and we think this was one of them!

We continued down hill, looking forward to breakfast and a cafe/bar  located at the 17km mark of the stage.

Alas, the cafe was closed and there was nothing for it but to have another couple of squares of chocolate and begin the three enormous climbs still ahead.

At the end of the second climb, we came to the little village of A Lastra where, to our great delight there was a little bar that served wonderful bocadilloes. Fortified by a large (shared) cheese and tomato one, we felt up to the final seven and.a half kilometres! Along the way, we enjoyed great conversation with Daphna from Israel, who turns out to be a physiotherapist and who was able to offer helpful advice for Neil’s shin splint. And throughout the day we continued to enjoy our various interactions with our fellow pilgrims, a number of whom are struggling with legs and feet after these last few days.

Our photos are fewer today because of the rain, but this was our last day in the higher mountains. Tomorrow is a longer stage, just over 30km, and tonight we are blessed by the unexpected bonus of staying at pilgrim rates in a small pension because the albergue was full. It looks as though we’ll have a room to ourselves and our own bathroom!!

The antibiotics seem to be working and the swelling of Neil’s hand is going down, so we’re hopeful that in coming days we can keep walking and bring it home to Santiago!

For now, Buen Camino,

Neil and Sarah