O Cadavo to Lugo

Today’s stage was over 30 kms, in fact we have walked 46,327 steps. My phone tells me our steps are trending higher over the past 8 days - go figure!!

We left our albergue as usual at about 7am, before the sun had risen, and quickly fell in with Dion (Johnny) from south central Spain whose company we have enjoyed over the past few days at various stops. Engrossed in conversation, the first 8km passed relatively quickly before we stopped for breakfast at Castroverde and Johnny walked on.

Our breakfast bar turned out to be the major pilgrim stopping place, and we met up with several others, including Daphna who we walked with yesterday and Luis from Mexico, trying their hand at darts. 

A little later , we met up with these two very cute French bulldogs who were keen to follow us along their fence line.

One of the blessings of today’s stage, apart from it not being so mountainous, was that the path took us through many classically Galician shaded country lanes. The light through the leaves of the trees was just delightful as was the cool breeze.

This was our first Cruciero for this trip - often at crossroads, these stone crucifixes are quite common in the Galician countryside. This one also has the figure of St James, half way up!

We had a couple of long slogs up bitumen roads. It was good to get back into the woodland path, and to have a rest before the final 8km into Lugo along with a restorative square or two of chocolate - important to avoid ‘hunger flats’ on these long stages!!

Finally, the outskirts of Lugo came into view. By now we each had at least two blisters and were ready to arrive.

Lugo is the only city in the world to be entirely surrounded by intact Roman walls. The wall around the city stands between 8-12m high, and 4-7m thick. There are 10 gates and 71 towers, and here is Sarah entering the Porta da S. Pedro. In this city we are exactly 100km from Santiago.

Here’s where we had dinner - we didn’t go for the goldfish!

Lugo is the largest city we’ve been in thus far, and there are lots of plazas, restaurants etc. The cathedral Santa de Maria is in the background.

This is another massive church inside the city walls.

And close up to the cathedral - building commenced in 1129.

Here are the walls again, close to where our albergue is. Note the thickness - you’d feel pretty safe against attack in here!

We’re feeling weary tonight but grateful for the graces of the day. And despite today’s distance, Neil’s injuries continue to heal (apart from the blisters which seem to be thriving!). As ever, we are also grateful for your following along and your encouraging comments. Thank you for sharing the journey with us.

Buen Camino,

Neil and Sarah