Grandas de Salim to A Fonsagrada

As is often the case when staying in Municipal albergues, we were awakened very early by the sound of plastic bags rustling and toilets being flushed - the company of pilgrims stirring pre-dawn keen to get on the road. Sarah, however, was less keen this morning but it was clear by 6.15am that there was no more rest to be had, so we got ourselves up and out!

We walked for the first couple of kilometres with our torch, but the dawn broke and after an early morning coffee and some fruit in a tiny bar, we walked through a lovely misty wood, with fallen leaves carpeting the path.

After this, the road started up again and today the climb felt relentless. For over 10km in two to two and a half hours, we ascended, and it got steeper all the way. Finally we came above the clouds and the surrounding landscape looked like the ocean dotted with occasional islands.

Neil was managing ok but his arm and hand looked like they were swelling and there was some seepage from the wound.

Over the top of the range at last, we crossed the border between Asturias and Galicia. A few kilometres further, we came across a welcome bar.

We shared a restorative bocadillo and also reconnected with a number from our pilgrim band, including Daniel from the Czech Republic and Alba from Spain (Catalonia). Alba spent most of her break helping Neil to get his phone working, negotiating with the Spanish telco. After which, we were able to call Anne, Neil’s Mum, in Jersey. Thanks Alba!!

As we started walking in Galicia, we immediately noticed a change in the feel, landscape and vegetation of the region.

The terrain felt more open, the mist left behind in Asturias. And there were the big black slugs crossing the path, that we remembered so well!

The middle of the day was hot, but there were welcome shady spots along the way.

This is the view of tonight’s resting spot, A Fonsagrada, which took a couple more hours and a VERY steep final climb to reach.

We struggled to find a ‘cow of the day’, but here’s our best effort - we were certainly aware of the familiar sweet, pungent smell of Galician farm yards and dairies.

Tonight’s albergue is gorgeous - a Municipal but in a beautifully restored stone building, very clean and with some great spaces to sit and chat. The dorms too are spacious, though it might not look it to the uninitiated eye!

After we’d had our showers, Neil’s injuries were inspected by Klara and unfortunately there was some sign of infection - his hand and forearm had swelling and redness, and Klara and Alba (a nurse) thought he needed to go to a clinic for evaluation and possible further treatment. Again, our Camino friends were amazing - Alba discovered the location of the town clinic and insisted on coming with us to translate. It was just so reassuring to have her with us, and she fully explained the circumstances to the doctor and nurse, and negotiated the administrative issues for us. There was a nasty few minutes when the wound had to be picked over with enormous tweezers to extract a bit more of the road on which Neil had fallen, but it was done with great care and skill, and Neil bore it bravely (though no lollipop was forthcoming!). The wound was duly dressed and antibiotics prescribed, and already things look and feel better. 

We are so grateful to Alba for her help through the day, and for so generously giving up her afternoon rest time to accompany us. So, drugged to the eyeballs (!) we are hoping for a good night’s sleep and we’ll see how things look and feel in the morning.

Buen Camino,

Neil and Sarah