As Seixas to Arzua

Today was another big day - almost 30km. In fact, in the past three days, we’ve walked over 90km. And in keeping with our friend Charles’ dictum that when camping or travelling you spend an inordinate amount of energy trying to ensure that a small number of things don’t get wet, lost or broken, Sarah is unhappy to report that she has managed to lose one of her two t-shirts since yesterday! However, in general we’re very well and happy!

After dinner yesterday, we enjoyed sitting out in the warm summer evening and the gorgeous light on the stone walls.

We fed this very appealing small flock of sheep with fallen apples, which their owner had done too!

After a lovely quiet night, we were on the road more or less at dawn (which in Spain at this time of year is just after 7am).

The morning air was cool but you could feel the heat already latent in it, and there were many wild flowers on the higher plains. Sometimes we lose all track of what day it is and have trouble remembering where we stayed even two nights ago. I don’t think it’s Enlightenment exactly, but there’s certainly something about this practice that keeps you vividly present. This gave rise to the first of the day’s haikus!

Purple heather, small

Yellow gorse, sky traced with cloud

And flightpaths, blurring.

We were conscious that later today our Primitivo route would join with the much busier Camino Frances, so we wanted to savour the quiet morning paths.

The city of Melide came into view which is the point of joining.

When we arrived in town, we met René, an American pilgrim who has been with us since our first stage at Grado. This is the church at Melide, around which was a bustling Sunday market.

And indeed it was incredible how busy things suddenly felt, a positive pilgrim highway heading out of town with lots more large groups and noisy banter. Hence, this second haiku!

Confluence of ways, 

Turbulence of rhythm, sound.

Now open your heart.

It was very hot, and any cafe with tables under trees attracted thirsty walkers.

We went pretty well given heat and blistered feet, but the cool water of the river at Ribadiso was balm!

And the medieval bridge was pretty great too!

At Ribadiso we could have stopped for the night at this albergue. 

But we decided to get another 3km under our belt to make tomorrow’s stage easier. But first a very large bocadillo strengthened our legs.

So now we are at Arzua, about 40km from Santiago. We are in another restored stone Municipal albergue and plan to walk a shorter stage tomorrow so we can meet up with Alba and others who are a few kilometres behind us. We hope to walk into Santiago and celebrate together. 

Buen Camino,

Neil and Sarah