15 September 2025

16. Arudy to Oloron

 We have been quietly hoping that we might stumble across one of the 76 brown bears living in the Pyrenees, but after visiting the museum in Arudy yesterday afternoon we’ve changed our minds!!


Might give the vultures a miss too!!


On the other hand, cowbells are relatively harmless to pilgrims. Arudy is the cow bell capital of the Pyrenees, specialising in dress bells and everyday bells ancient and modern.


And so to our new day, which began with a generous breakfast provided by Laurent, our hospitalero. We arrived at the table to find serviettes with our names on them and a warm message of encouragement from the priest, as well as little cup cakes hidden under each of our coffee mugs.



There was even an enormous wheel of sheep’s cheese to munch from, some of which we were given to share with lunch.


The old communal washing pool was just outside the albergue door - note the angular washing platforms.


We walked out of town through back streets, which gave us a glimpse of the mountains we would walk alongside all day.




For those interested in the slug colouration conversation, here is a fine specimen of the rare grey spotted slimy leopard slug! 


Our walk today was fairly flat and a mixture of road, river and forest trails. One of the guys in the photo behind us assured us that his dog would only eat one calf at a time (which Neil, French scholar that he is, translated as ‘this dog wouldn’t hurt a fly’!!)


A strategically placed picnic table provided the perfect venue for a late lunch.


The afternoon warmed up quite a bit, tempting some of our number to a swim.



The final few kilometres started to climb towards the town of Oloron.



Its principal industries are, you guessed it, cow bell making (actually, aircraft component manufacturing) and Lindt chocolate (that’s true!). Oloron is also famous as the capital of the Basque beret, worn by shepherds in the Pyrenees. In fact, it is the last place in France still making berets in the traditional way. 


It’s also famous for a particular kind of pastry, which clearly requires more extensive exploration. The river meanders through the town and we are in a lovely municipal albergue quite near to it. 


Time to cook dinner and bring in the washing.

And then an evening stroll.




Voila, the beret shop! Opening in 1620, this shop is the oldest boutique clothing shop in France.


Bon chemin
Sarah, Neil and Sarah 

🐾  🐾  🐾  🐾 🐾 🐾 🐾 🐾 🐾 🐾 🐾








7 comments:

  1. Beautiful capture of the evening light. I look forward to any discovery of the local pastries! Graeme

    ReplyDelete
  2. Thank you for the photo of the beautiful orange and mauve flowers, just exquisite for me. The scenery is becoming even more beautiful. It seems timeless there.Go well, dear friends.

    ReplyDelete
  3. Wonderful hospitality and encouragement. The scenery is magnificent. My swim this morning wasn't nearly as picturesque as yours, but I enjoyed it all the same. Plover parents are being very protective of their eggs, which are on top of the roof, at the local pool here. Go well tomorrow.

    ReplyDelete
  4. What beautiful gestures from the priest. I think he has a good understanding of his vocation. Thanks for your ongoing dedication to sharing the journey with us all!

    ReplyDelete
  5. Fantastic … such generosity beauty and humour throughout the whole day! ❤️ Deb

    ReplyDelete
  6. I have to say the trip looks wonderful from my armchair and the food as well. Somehow the slug reminds me of Neil the seal, the song about the sea visitor to John Coleman’s garden!

    ReplyDelete
  7. I am so enjoying your reports written with such humour, it makes my heart sing. Thank you🙏.

    ReplyDelete