I was out bright and early this morning. Once someone’s alarm goes off in these bigger hostels and albergues things ramp up quickly, a chaos of rustling, bag packing, teeth cleaning etc, etc. I find it best to pack quickly and get going. I found an open cafe just up the hill so I had a quick coffee and tostadas and walked on. The morning was cool and quiet, perfect for walking.
At times it looked as if the path led into the sea. At other times, it wound deep into the forested hillside.
It hasn’t always been easy to pick where the route goes but it was totally clear here!
The general pattern is to wind up and away from an inlet or beach town (like Gateria), mostly up some steep, rocky path, cross the next ridge or two, and then descent (usually steeply) into the next inlet or town.
I did this twice today. First into Zumaia and then again into Deba.
As I walked into Deba (again via a long, steep roughly cobbled set of steeps) the central plaza and surrounding lanes were buzzing (with st James watching over it all from high in the church wall). There was clearly some festival going on with many folks dressed in a variety of traditional outfits.
The heart of the festival seemed to revolve around a bunch on young women and men (wearing pointy hats with coloured bands attached and enormous cow bells tied to their waists) parading around around the central square with a bouncy step that made the cow bells ring.
Most others seemed intent on queueing for what looked like a sausage in a specially cooked crepe from a crowded street stall and then for a glass of cider from a big keg planted next door.
I asked these young girls what was happening and the one with a little English said: ‘Basque party’.
Then came the procession of all the dressed up folks following a band.
More bouncing cow bells. Lots of noise. Everyone seemingly enjoying themselves.
I followed it all for a while and then took to the road again, across the inlet and up, up, up the other side.
These climbs aren’t as high as some of the climbs on the Piamonte in France but some are as steep!!!
😮💨😮💨😮💨
The albergue was another 5kms or so further on, out in the countryside. It’s a humble simple place that offers a communal pilgrim meal, bed and breakfast hamper, all of which is much appreciated. I arrived in good time to shower, wash and hang clothes, and have a little time to relax before dinner
And by now, I hope Sarah’s flight should be nearing Australia.
Buenas noches, dear reader.
💤 💤 💙 💤 💤
What a parade! Nearly makes up for missing the Grand Final I guess (or is that heresy?).
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