It was our last day in France, raining intermittently, and the first six kilometres were along a fairly busy road. Thankfully there was a good verge most of the way and we made it to the next village without incident. The advantage of going by road was that we shaved off a couple of hill climbs, and then enjoyed a coffee served by a lovely friendly cafe owner!
The second part of the stage (another 20km or so) was also mainly on road, but these were quieter wooded lanes.
Lunch was a snack in the church porch at Urrugne (perfectly aligned with a heavy downpour). The church itself was huge with three tiers of wooden balconies lining the sides - the top tier being about 12m high.
Navigation was a challenge at times as this route seems really a transitional one, designed for passage between the Camino Piedmont-Pyrenean (which normally flows into the Camino Frances) and the Camino del Norte. It went by back lanes, avoiding major road systems, and felt ‘bitty’ at times.
At times the track almost petered out completely.
But then, following an unpromising grassy track, we crested an hill and saw the Atlantic ocean ahead. 620 kms after leaving Carcassone and climbing and descending numerous hills and a few mountain tails we reached the sea. Wow!!!
We wound our way down through Hendaye, and found ourselves following a group of Spanish pilgrims who seemed clear about the way. We stepped onto the Pont de Saint-Jacques on the French side of river (Rive) Bidasoa, and stepped off the Puente de Santiago on the Spanish side, having crossed the Rio de Bidasoa. And just like that, we were in a different country - different language, different culture, different energy. Astonishing!!
The way then took us along a tidal estuary and into the city of Irun.
Tonight we are in the large municipaly albergue which has beds for 60 pilgrims - many of whom are starting the Camino del Norte.
We are also pleased to report that we’ve had our first pintxos (Basque tapas)!
Tomorrow is Sarah’s last day of walking - 24km to San Sebastián - where we’ll stay for two days to savour more pintxos and the beauty of what, by all accounts, is a wonderful city on the Atlantic coast.
Buen Camino amigos and buenas noches.
👣 🧡 👣 🧡
congratulations on making it thus far! I’m glad you took the lower road …those mountain climbs looked hellish! Enjoy San Sebastián and those pinxtos and safe return to us, Sarah.
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