19. Ordiarp to chez Sandra (St Just Ibarre)

 We forgot to mention yesterday that it was exactly 12 years since we embarked on our first Camino, walking out of St Jean-Pied-de-Port on 16 September 2013 on the Camino Frances. We’ll be there tomorrow - so amazingly close to the anniversary! 

After a comfortable night in our lodgings with Elena, we woke to a misty morning and the sun breaking through. We shared the leftovers of last night’s pasta for breakfast, and some cafe.

Booting up for another stage.

A goodbye to Elena, and we were on the road again.

The little church in the village of Ordiarp was very inviting. It is approached via a ramp/bridge that carries you over a stream and up into a well-maintained cemetery and porch.

Inside we found the walls were thick, with tiny slits of stained glass windows letting in the light.

It was a lovely space to meditate, though the commencement of whipper-snippering just beyond the church yard about 5 minutes in proved a test for our undistractedness!

Out of the village, the road started to rise and there was over 400m of climbing in today’s stage. We began with hundreds of spider webs festooning the grass by the roadside. 

A little way into the forest we came upon this cow and tiny calf both resting on the path. The calf still had the umbilical cord attached and we realised it must have been only a few hours old, the mother still recovering from the birth. They seemed unflustered by our presence and we tried not to disturb them.

The light was stunning and we had time to observe it in our regular stops to pant and enjoy the expanding view.

Vultures circling overhead - let’s not make that mean too much!

It was a stunning day in the mountains and the descent through forest was equally beautiful, with autumn crocuses on display and another Ent.

We are staying at another private gite - chez Sandra - a little before the village of St Just Ibarre. Though the kilometres were shorter today, the climbing was strenuous and we have been glad to rest on the terrace in the warm air, meeting some of the locals. 

Having our pilgrim credential stamped by Sandra with a melted wax seal.

Tomorrow we walk to St Jean-Pied-de-Port, whose pilgrim bustle seems much more than 20km from this quiet backwater. Today has been especially full of peace and light, and we are grateful. 

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