12. Esparros to Bagneres de Bigorre

Despite your prayers and best wishes, dear friends, the night was not conspicuously better than the day that preceded it! There were definitely blessings - a roof over our heads, a fire to warm the mountain gite and help to dry our gear (though Neil had to go scouting in the rain for wood), and the unexpected provision of dinner in the form of a packet of pasta and a jar of tomato paste that Andy bought from a local villager! On the downside, blisters, a precipitous flight of stairs in pitch black down to the loo, horrendous cramps in Neil’s legs and a distinctly unrestful half sized bed (the gite having been overbooked). Oh, and did we mention it was double the normal price?!! 

Nevertheless, as seasoned contemplatives, we got through with minimal resistance and resentment (!!!) and prepared ourselves with relative equanimity to face the next 33km without breakfast. All our hope was founded in Bourg de Bigorre, about 10km on, where coffee would be brewing and warm croissants would be waiting. 

The country was stunning wreathed in an early autumn mist and the overnight rain had cleared.

We passed magnificent trees - chestnuts, oaks and some conifers too.

There seem to be lots of swallows too though no murmurations yet.

It’s a landscape both domestic and wild.

Alas, our hope in Bourg de Bigorre was ill-founded - rien!! No shops and the local l asked about the possibility of a boulangerie (bakery) laughed out right! Even the post office has closed. So, there was nothing for it but to continue on, armed with our remaining half packet of peanuts and half a small jar of honey (what would Winnie the Pooh do??)!

Followed by a mangy dog from this boulangerie forsaken village, we climbed another hill through another boulangerie forsaken village and another hill and so on until …

we arrived in Uzer, 15km later. We were sharing the last our peanuts and a spoonful each of honey on a step at the edge of the cemetery, when a energetic, cheerful woman walked past, greeted us, and said there was a bench and a fountain with water just around the corner. Sarah asked if there was a shop because we had not been able to buy food at any other village on the way. She said no - nothing until Bagneres de Bigorre, another 9km away. We commented (in very mangled French) on the difficulty of finding food in the area and she offered to make us a sandwich!! Not only that, but she took us down to her house, set out the makings and then said she had to return to care for someone further up the street. We were to help ourselves and leave when we were ready. 

What a blessing and gift - not just the food, but the generosity of spirit and the trust. It made all the difference to our enjoyment of the final part of the stage, which involved another long climb and descent. 

Bagneres de Bigorre is a large centre with a river running through it. We loved this swan/goose/duck/water fowl (??) sitting in the river that flowed under this house.

We also loved the fact that there was a boulangerie 300m after we arrived, complete with millefeuille. Needless to say we purchased one and consumed it forthwith in the local park. 

We are now ensconced in the local pilgrim hostel attached to St Vincent de Paul, and are able to stay here two nights. We’re looking forward to exploring more of this old Roman thermal town, and to giving our bodies a little bit of a rest and some time for recovery.

Thank you again for all your encouragement and support, which means so much. 

👣 💛 👣