Arzúa to Lavacolla

Last night, we were definitely feeling the impact of the Camino Ways joining at Melide. The number of pilgrims increased massively and if, with our companions on the Primitivo we experienced the joy and kindness of strangers, here we felt more of the crush and noise of the crowd. Our dormitory was incredibly noisy after lights out, and we resigned ourselves to not much sleep. But we did sleep and at one point I (Sarah) woke to the sound of vigorous snoring, restless turning and an overwhelming sense of our being like animals in a herd, all lying down together. Hence:

Despite the endless

creaking of bed springs and noise,

we sleep in a pack.

The room started stirring at 6am and there was no point in staying put, so we too got up and out in the dark. From Arzua there are only 40km to Santiago so there was a sense of moving into the final stages for many pilgrims. We had a good breakfast about 7km into the day and a bit later passed this bar, which gave a whole new spin on the notion of a beer garden! There were thousands of bottles of Peregrino beer lining the gate posts, trees and fence line!

Despite the number of pilgrims on the path and the proximity to major roads around Santiago, there were actually many wooded sections that were delightful to walk in and we were often on our own. To our amazement, things felt quiet and peaceful.

We continued to have to manage a few foot and blister issues ... and almost every pilgrim walks with some kind of limp by this stage. Hence Neil’s coining of the collective noun, ‘a stagger of pilgrims’!

Another reason to be grateful for the softer paths cushioned by eucalypt leaves from the trees that line the way here.

A mural in Arca/O Pedrouzo.

Another peaceful path.

We had a lovely lunch stop involving pizza in a terraced bar with hanging baskets.

Neil showing our pilgrim passport, with stamps we’ve collected from albergues and cafe stops along the route.

We are now very happily ensconced in the albergue at Lavacolla, 10km out of Santiago. Traditionally this was known as ‘a place of washing’, where pilgrims prepared themselves in body and spirit for the end of the journey. We are appreciating the peaceful spirit of this place and the chance to rest and collect ourselves in the garden. Here we also expect Alba, Daniel, Jonny and perhaps others to arrive and we plan to walk in together tomorrow.
 


Though today was another 30km day, it felt surprisingly unhurried and easy, but our legs are definitely looking forward to a bit of rest!

Buen Camino,

Sarah and Neil