49. Oseira to A Laxe

Hola friends, your comments are encouraging me along, thank you. I’m conscious of fatigue as I get to the end of this Camino and of the danger of just wishing these final stages away, but you help me to appreciate this amazing opportunity and rich Galician country. Goblins, trolls, and fairies, yes! I can imagine them everywhere in these damp, green forested parts. 

This morning started, as has been the pattern these past days, with a steep climb through a wild rocky water race. I started with a bunch of others but in minutes they seemed far behind and I felt like the only person in this remote rural backwater.

I passed through a dozen tiny hamlets along the stage. I never saw a human being but was bailed up by at least one dog, and ignored by about three cats in each one of them.

It was damp this morning but once again, the rain held off until we we’re safely housed in the albergue in A Laxe (pronounced ‘u - lash’). The humidity is sapping when walking but not having to contend with rain at the same time is a relief. It’s impossible to wash and dry clothes so each day now I am walking in the same damp, smelly gear. Maybe that’s why even the trolls are hiding!!??

In the albergue, we are almost exactly fifty kilometres from Santiago. Ourense was 110 so that’s about 60 kilometres covered in these past two stages, maybe even a bit more since Osiera is a few kilometres off the direct route.

A Laxe is a tiny nondescript kind of place, with an albergue to match. It has a reputation for mosquitos, and already I’ve seen them, so tonight could be interesting. There is one bar on the nearby main road, so happily, we can get dinner.

From a personal perspective, it feels an achievement to be here. A combination of weariness and the constant energy sapping humidity means that each stage is a bit daunting at present. Tomorrow, Fernando and I hope to walk to Ponte Ulla, 28kms further down the road. This makes it a shorter (22km) stage into Santiago on Friday - very appealing.

Buen Camino

Neil💚👣