52. Santiago to A Pena

Overnight, to my delight, the swelling in my calves and ankles reduced markedly. By morning they were feeling almost normal and I was ready to begin the last phase of this Camino to Finisterre. 

I rose at six and wandered down to the Praza de Obadioro (it’s much quieter at 6.30am!), had a quick breakfast and hit the road. (Not, however, without taking Ken Wilson’s advice and popping an ibuprofen tablet to help relax tight muscles!!)

The way takes you quickly out of Santiago and into the surrounding countryside. It is a mix of sections of bush track and sections on small rural roads. Looking back, a final view of the cathedral spires.

Within twenty minutes of setting off, I came across three Australian pilgrims. There’s another one staying in the albergue at A Pena, so there are quite a band of us walking in Spain.

There was only one way to get to the other side of this ridge - up and over.

When I got to the base of the hill, a sign warned that it was a two kilometre climb with an average gradient of 10%. There were steeper pinches (up to 17%), and I was pleased that I was able to keep abreast of a bunch of younger guys on mountain bikes (with no packs and a support vehicle!!) all the way to the top. I was in the zone and feeling strong.

Ten years ago, when Sarah and I crossed this old stone bridge it was pouring with rain and the river was flowing over the road. Things were more settled today.

Passing out through the gate to the town of Negreira. I had a good stop for a bocadillo just before this spot.

From here it was just nine kilometres to the albergue at A Pena. 

Looking back to Negreira.

Some women working hard in the fields. That’s smoke haze making the photo looked washed out, there seemed to be a lot of burning off happening, and in these humid conditions the smoke hung heavy in the valley.

I saw a couple of these birds today. The plumage on the tips of their wings is striking.

I arrived at the albergue just after 1pm. There was time to shower, wash, and even partly dry clothes before the (what seem to be daily) storms hit - thunder, hail and heavy rain. It’s a comfortable albergue, so being couped up in a bunk while it rages outside is fine. A communal meal is on offer tonight so there’s an opportunity to meet and chat with a new group of pilgrims later. Meanwhile, I can read and rest in readiness for tomorrow.

Buen Camino 

Neil💚👣

PS. Anna T, I forget to say that I also went looking for a lightweight umbrella while in Santiago yesterday. I had no luck, but I’m now convinced that they are a worthy addition to a pilgrim’s backpack - for sun and rain protection!!