21. St-Jean-Pied-de-Port to St- Etienne de Baigarry

It was a pre-dawn start today. We had a big hill to climb. the moon and the morning star we still shining.

We trundled back into town, bamboozling some of the pilgrims starting on the Camino Frances and walking the other way.

A baguette and a coffee in the local boulangerie and we were off and puffing. 

Mist lay in the valleys but the sun was warm early - the forecast was for 35 degrees today, and our early start was to try to beat the heat.

This was the main climb that confronted us after about 5km. It’s hard to convey the scale and steepness of this landscape, but we definitely felt it in our legs today!

The final part of the ascent was seriously vertical - steep enough that we had to do it in 10m bursts. But the view ….!!!

At the top, we met a peaceful flock of mountain goats who seemed very at home on the trig station.

The mountains stretch out, layer upon layer, and it was great to spend some time on the summit taking in the view and enjoying being immersed in these amazing mountains.

Though it was only 11.30am, we had half our lunch. But because we weren’t sure if there’d be more food available today, we kept the other half for second lunch! Then we were descending and, once we hit the tree line, through some stunning oak trees.

Autumn crocuses were very present on the sides of the track and in the moss under these trees.

A lovely soft verge tempted us to a siesta on a hot afternoon. 

The last part of the afternoon was in road as we made our way to the rural gite about 3km from St Etienne where we are staying tonight.

It’s a gorgeous old farm house - our room has stone walls and exposed timber beams - and the view is spectacular.

We thought we may miss out on dinner until discovering that pizza could be delivered here from St Jean! It took us the whole day to walk here over the mountains, but 15 minutes by road in a car! A slightly lowering thought, but boy did we appreciate the pizzas!! 

Tomorrow, weather and tired legs permitting, we plan to head up again into the hills for the ‘queen stage’ of this route - the Pic d’Iparla. We’ll be tracing the high ridge which is the border between France and Spain. 

👣 🐐 🐐 🐐 👣 🐐 🐐 🐐 👣