Thursday 27 April 2023

16. Castro del Rio to Santa Cruz

After a night by ourselves in the municipal albergue, we were up even earlier this morning to try to beat the heat, but still managed a cafe booster to set us on our way. Alas, however, again no bread for tostadas - so Sarah’s guilty smirk conceals her nutrient rich squares of dark breakfast chocolate.





It was fine getting out of town in the dark, as the streets and paths were well lit. It was a little more challenging on the unlit (pitch black!) section of highway we had to negotiate, but once we turned onto the country lanes it was a really beautiful time to walk. We thought of lines on the theme of risking delight from Jack Gilbert’s poem, ‘A Brief for the Defense’: ‘God wants us to enjoy our lives, otherwise the mornings before summer dawn would not be made so fine’.



What? No olives!! 



As you can see the agricultural make up of the landscape is changing. Today after four days immersed in olive groves, we passed fields of wheat, potatoes and almonds, as well as olives.



We also had some clouds in the sky!



These guys were queuing for water for their trees, and also seemed to be enjoying an early morning catch up.



The hilltop town of Espejo, built originally by Julius Caesar. We paused here, in a delightful long plaza for a second coffee and for tostadas. We shared a table with Esther and Karsten, whom we hadn’t seen since before Baena. 


Espejo is 1037kms from Santiago - closing in!!






Walking out of Espejo; our path stretching towards the horizon. 



One of Julius’s bridges - a little worn from traffic but not bad for over 2000 years old!



We spoke in a previous blog about a regenerative approach to olive growing, and wonder if this is an example?



Not sure exactly what this is about but certainly there is grass growing between the trees.





And again.





Sarah slipped and fell today, stepping aside to avoid a tractor on that steep section of gravel out of Espejo. Thanks to wearing 3/4 pants, her knees (though bruised) weren’t too badly grazed. She was able to continue, which is good as we still had 13kms to walk on this stage.



As you can see, she has washed and cleaned them and they don’t look too bad. And apparently, this gel with (you guessed it!) olive extract is brilliant for bruised knees!! 



This afternoon, we enjoyed sharing a menu del dia with Esther and Karsten, which included salmorejo C贸rdobes, a specialty peasant soup of this region (based on tomato, onion, garlic and a few other goodies). Alba had said we must try it - ‘it is very important’. It was delicious, thank you for the tip, Alba!



Tomorrow is a 26km walk into C贸rdoba (and then a bit extra to get to our accommodation). The temperature forecast has been downgraded from a maximum of 38C to 36C and there is due to be some cloud cover so it does not sound as daunting as it did earlier in the week. Nevertheless, once again, we’ll be looking to get on the road before things warm up too much. 

Buen Camino 馃懀
Neil and Sarah 馃А


3 comments:

  1. Hola amigos!!
    I hope for Sarah that tomorrow her knees are fine and she can walk and enjoy her last stage. Try to cool them down with some ice if they are swollen.
    By the way, salmorejo doesnt have onion, gazpacho has. Salmorejo is based basically on tomatoes, garlic, bread and olive oil.
    Let us know how is everything going tomorrow!
    Un abrazo!
    Alba.

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  2. So sorry to hear about your fall, Sarah. I hope that the gel is helping. By golly, they are very high temperatures. There certainly is something very special and peaceful about predawn. Go well. Sending love. Elizabeth R. xo

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  3. Dry heat and sore knees, yikes. But pictures and poetry you two produce are very impressive. I reckon Sarah is entitled to as much chocolate as she wants. KAS

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