Tuesday 18 April 2023

8. La Peza to Quentar

When Neil walked the Camino Levante, there was evidence of bullfighting everywhere - it was playing on television in most cafe-bars and he even slept in a bullfighting arena. On this route, this statue we saw in our wandering last night in La Peza was the only sign so far. We’d expected we might have seen more of this in Andalucía. 



A little further on, we found a lovely old fuente - perfect for soothing slightly swollen calves!!



Today’s stage was long, beautiful and (by Camino standards) relatively remote. There were no villages in the 27km between La Peza and Quentar, so snacks consisted of a couple of Kitkat bars and a couple of apples we brought with us. Oh, and there was the pain au chocolat we managed to pick up from the panaderia that was open as we passed out of La Peza early this morning! The morning light was warm and the path inviting.



In those 27km, we ascended close to a kilometre in altitude and descended down, at times very steeply, a similar amount. Whether up or down, it was hard work!!





Overall, the way was a lot more wooded than previous stages - we passed conifers, sweet flowering gorse and rosemary buzzing with bees. 



Some of the vistas were spectacular, including glimpses of the highest peaks of the Sierra Nevada mountains in the distance.



The valleys were cultivated with olives and still some almonds. 



There was a quiet quality to the first part of the walk today. We heard only birdsong and a gentle breeze whispering in the pines, and our own steps (which gave rise to a modest haiku!).

Footfall quiet in 
dust, steady purpose, tranqil
pace, Camino days. 



After a couple of hours walking, we paused for a snack under a shady conifer with a view of distant snow-capped peaks.



And here’s the path that lay ahead of us.



A lost sheep followed us for a while, plaintively calling for her lamb or her companions, neither of which appeared. It made us realise the power of the metaphor of a lost sheep and the significance of finding and being found!



We caught up with Dominique about the time we were all looking for a break and stopped for another snack under another conifer.



Resuming again, we came upon an old marble quarry - the Camino passing right through the middle of startlingly bright white stone, very dusty under foot. We wondered what statues, steps, church facades and kitchen benches have been carved from stone sourced here.





From there it was a long and steep descent to our village, though we tried to keep smelling the roses (or in this case, the lilacs) on the way down.



It was a wonderful stage to walk AND we were pleased to arrive in Quentar for a shower, a rest and a great menu del dia. Tomorrow we walk into Granada and the first section of this Camino will be complete. 



We continue really to appreciate your company and comments on the blog, and this opportunity we have to be on this way.

Buen Camino, 
Neil and Sarah 





4 comments:

  1. It seems such remote and lonely country… maybe it was the lost sheep but the roads and tracks devoid of cars, people, dwellings unsettle me…imagining the sounds of your footsteps falling in such vast sweeping country touch within me perhaps the truth of our existence… we are all just temporal travellers journeying alone together for such a short time… thank you for sharing your journey… feels like I’m on a pilgrimage too! (Where will I end up?!😬) 👣❤️Deb

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  2. Turn to Wonder - how true. Bxx

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  3. Thanks for the map! That puts this epic walk in context. Sounds like there is a comfortable number of other pilgrims. At least, snoring has not yet featured in these dispatches from the Way…

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  4. About a week behind, but appreciate your signposts, and the vicarious scent of lilac KAS

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