2. Rioja to Alboloduy

We were up and out before dawn, despite a poor night’s sleep - albergue life always requires some adjustment and we are both still feeling a little jet lagged. But breakfast always helps, and this was a nice bar at the edge of Rioja on our way out.

Once walking, we were immediately back in arid country. It looked as though people might have lived in these caves at one stage - like the desert monks. 

And these doors just took our fancy.

We passed two Spanish pilgrims with whom our path cross-crossed for much of the day. 

Early on, there were still orchards in the valley, and the smell of citrus blossom was beautiful, reminding Sarah of her grandparents’ garden in York, Western Australia - another dry, Mediterranean climate. And so, a haiku:

Oases of sweet

scent, orange trees blossoming.

Groves of green in brown.

Our first sighting of Don Quixote - a little south of his native territory.

Later, the path led up and down through the parched stony hills. 

This was a particularly challenging ascent!

From the top we could see for miles, including this solar farm set alone in the valley below.

This country put us in mind of North Africa - places like Israel and Algeria, and the wonderful film ‘Far From Men’ based on Albert Camus’ novel.

If Sarah can’t get to Bonnevaux for her retreat, this cave is always an option!! A good place to confront the dreaded noon day demon. 

The little pueblos too had a North African feel with their flat roofed houses and whitewashed walls. We passed four or five throughout the day.

Once within these pueblos, we sensed a containing and communal vibe - another kind of oasis. The houses are beautifully kept, often with tiled entrances and tiny gardens, fountains splash in the central plazas and here in Alhabria, we had the most welcome break and snack!

The final seven kilometres of today’s stage were hot and again without much shade. In the little bit that was available, we stopped to rest and cool our feet in the irrigation channel flowing alongside the road. Bliss!! Chocolate may also have been involved!

So here we are in Alboloduy - at the end of the valley and facing another steep climb first thing tomorrow. This stage will be longer and the day promises to be hotter, so even more challenging than today. Just as well our feet and gear are holding up so far!

Buen Camino, 

Neil and Sarah