30 April 2023

18. C贸rdoba to Cerro Muriano

Today, our paths diverge. Now for a time, we must follow different arrows…



This morning we were up and out early, in search of an open bar where we could share a final breakfast together.



Too soon, it was time to say goodbye and set of in different directions - Sarah for the station, where she will catch a train to Malaga en route to Bonnevaux 馃А and me, looking for the Camino way. 



It wasn’t long before I found my first yellow flecha and from there on the path was well marked.



Unlike leaving Granada, the path out of C贸rdoba (a bigger city) took me quickly into rural parts. There were the usual complicated twists and turns across bridges and through tunnels to negotiate the complex network of highways and railroads that lead in and around the city, but within half an hour I could hear birds chirping all around me and feel the steady crunch, crunch of gravel under my feet.







There was a light cloud cover for most of the stage so the sun was less fierce, but the humidity was high and it still felt pretty hot.





Today is Sunday (Domingo), and along the way passed a number of walkers and even more people out on bikes. There were tracks criss-crossing all along this section and I was very grateful to the person/people who marked the Camino way so clearly.



Today’s stage was flat to begin, but once I cleared C贸rdoba the path rose quite steeply, much of it on rocky and relatively rugged ground. 


At one point, I crossed an abandoned rail line. One of the old sleepers made a good seat to pause and replenish my energy with a square (or two!) of chocolate. I discovered later that this railway once serviced a copper mine near Cerro Muriano. 




From my rest stop, it wasn’t too far to the destination, although it did take some detective work finding my accommodation. In the end, it was worth the search. I’m in a really nice room. It’s the only accommodation in town and it’s not only reasonably priced, but also clean and tastefully decorated with photographs from famous war photographer Robert Capa. On top of that, the bar downstairs was serving a delicious Menu del Dia. 



It has cooled somewhat this evening and at the only open bar the locals are seated outside playing dominoes - simple social pleasure. It’s a public holiday in Spain tomorrow so maybe they are even more relaxed than normal. For pilgrims, getting food tomorrow might be difficult. I searched in vain for an open supermarket here, but there is time yet. We’ll see.



So, a new phase of this adventure begins. It was sad farewelling Sarah this morning, but I’m glad for what she is doing, and, for my path on this Mozarab way, I am grateful.

Buen Camino 
Neil 馃А 馃懀



PS. There are clouds building above and there is thunder in the distance, perhaps, just perhaps, we might get some rain??

29 April 2023

C贸rdoba



Today was our rest day in Cordoba. It’s a busy and vibrant place, showing the influence of many cultures and layers of history. 



This Arabic Salon de Th茅 had a gorgeous interior, as do many of the restaurants and hotels here - there are garden courtyards, tiles and pillars which seem cool and enticing. 



The key building (and tourist attraction) is the Mezquita. The site was (by some accounts) originally a Visigothic church. The church was purchased in the 8th century, razed to the ground and a mosque built at a time when Cordoba was the capital of Muslim-ruled Al-Andalus. It was converted back into a cathedral in the 13th century when Cordoba was conquered by the Christians in the Reconquista. 



The scale and composition of the building is astonishing, as is the huge variety of decoration, stone work, mosaics and art.























This was also our last day on Camino together. Tomorrow morning Neil walks on (for another 11km or so), while Sarah starts travelling to Bonnevaux in France, the centre for the World Community for Christian Meditation. She will be leading a retreat on joy this coming week, and then beginning a personal, 30-day silent retreat.



After an afternoon spent trying (ultimately successfully) to find alternatives for a flight cancellation for Sarah we wandered back into the city centre for a final tapas and sangria. We were joined by Karsten and Esther who also walk on tomorrow. We sat outside in a wonderful plaza entirely surrounded by cloisters and had the best tapas so far. Walking the two kilometres back to our hostel we passed through streets that were heaving with revellers and ringing with music. The Cruces de Mayo fiesta is in full swing!!



It’s been such a wonderful experience to share this part of the Camino Mozarabe together and we are very grateful for your company on the blog and for your thoughtful and witty comments! The blog will of course continue as Neil walks on, and as Sarah sends news of Bonnevaux, so we hope you continue to join us on our ways. 

Buen Camino
Neil and Sarah 馃檹馃懀




17. Santa Cruz to C贸rdoba

The day began with some debate about whether Sarah’s (very) slightly battered knees were up to the 26km stage. To bus or not to bus?? In the end, she decided to walk and was glad - the knees were fine and the stage beautiful. 



Once again we set out early. The temperature hadn’t gone down much overnight - it was 17 degrees when we started, but there were cloudy skies for most of the walk which gave a lot of relief.





The shift from olives to other crops continued - today wheat predominated with the occasional field of sunflowers.







We were conscious it was our last day walking together, and we wanted to savour that. 



We enjoyed a landscape of rolling hills throughout the stage, sometimes guessing how long it would take to reach the crest of the next hill (it always takes longer than you think!!). 



‘What?? You can do this on a paraplane? That’s ridiculous, man!’



The city of Cordoba eventually came into view, stretching along the banks of the Rio Guadalquivir.


Go Sarah, you’re nearly there!



Well done peregrina - 420kms. Salud!



The city gate. 



The Mezquita across the bridge - formerly a mosque and now the cathedral, we will visit it tomorrow.



Lunch in a small plaza - we went for the local specialty again; salmorejo - cold creamy tomato soup with small bits of hard boiled egg and jamon. Absolutely delicious!!



Every Camino, Neil has a haircut and shave at a local barber. There’s always lovely connections despite language limitations, and it’s always a great cut!



As it happens, we are in Cordoba for the weekend of Cruz de May - a spring festival which involves crosses covered in flowers in every plaza, pop up bars and lots of impromptu dancing and flamenco.



Neil happened upon this group outside a church and they were happy to be photographed!



We hope to see and learn more about the fiesta tomorrow, so stay tuned!! Meanwhile, a window from the church near where we are staying.



We’ve spent the evening having a late tapas with Dominique and Michel - the French pilgrims we met on our first day out of Almeria. They finish here in Cordoba and head home tomorrow. 





With gratitude for all the day has brought, 
Buen Camino,
Neil and Sarah