18. Córdoba to Cerro Muriano

Today, our paths diverge. Now for a time, we must follow different arrows…

This morning we were up and out early, in search of an open bar where we could share a final breakfast together.

Too soon, it was time to say goodbye and set of in different directions - Sarah for the station, where she will catch a train to Malaga en route to Bonnevaux 🧡 and me, looking for the Camino way. 

It wasn’t long before I found my first yellow flecha and from there on the path was well marked.

Unlike leaving Granada, the path out of Córdoba (a bigger city) took me quickly into rural parts. There were the usual complicated twists and turns across bridges and through tunnels to negotiate the complex network of highways and railroads that lead in and around the city, but within half an hour I could hear birds chirping all around me and feel the steady crunch, crunch of gravel under my feet.

There was a light cloud cover for most of the stage so the sun was less fierce, but the humidity was high and it still felt pretty hot.

Today is Sunday (Domingo), and along the way passed a number of walkers and even more people out on bikes. There were tracks criss-crossing all along this section and I was very grateful to the person/people who marked the Camino way so clearly.

Today’s stage was flat to begin, but once I cleared Córdoba the path rose quite steeply, much of it on rocky and relatively rugged ground. 

At one point, I crossed an abandoned rail line. One of the old sleepers made a good seat to pause and replenish my energy with a square (or two!) of chocolate. I discovered later that this railway once serviced a copper mine near Cerro Muriano. 

From my rest stop, it wasn’t too far to the destination, although it did take some detective work finding my accommodation. In the end, it was worth the search. I’m in a really nice room. It’s the only accommodation in town and it’s not only reasonably priced, but also clean and tastefully decorated with photographs from famous war photographer Robert Capa. On top of that, the bar downstairs was serving a delicious Menu del Dia. 

It has cooled somewhat this evening and at the only open bar the locals are seated outside playing dominoes - simple social pleasure. It’s a public holiday in Spain tomorrow so maybe they are even more relaxed than normal. For pilgrims, getting food tomorrow might be difficult. I searched in vain for an open supermarket here, but there is time yet. We’ll see.

So, a new phase of this adventure begins. It was sad farewelling Sarah this morning, but I’m glad for what she is doing, and, for my path on this Mozarab way, I am grateful.

Buen Camino 

Neil 🧡 👣



PS. There are clouds building above and there is thunder in the distance, perhaps, just perhaps, we might get some rain??