1. Almería to Rioja

In my beginning is my end … As we set out from our hotel this morning, we had that almost poignant sense of not wanting to start this Camino (so long anticipated) since to begin it is to walk closer to it being over. Yet begin, we have, and it’s been a wonderful day. 

We walked the few hundred metres from our room to the Cathedral and paused to dedicate this journey and offer our thanks and prayer. And then, it really was time to go. ‘Allons, the road is before us’. 

The way out of the city was well sign posted though we sensed you’d need to know what you were looking for (amidst the many signs) to spot these (there’s a metaphor in that!!).

We found a nice local bar not long after leaving the old city, so that was our first Camino breakfast - cafe con leche y tostadas. 

As we walked out, parks and avenues featuring bougainvillea, palms, street art and fountains gave way to garages and industrial precincts. 

Mum (says Neil) this one’s for you!

The transition from vibrant city to arid outskirts gave rise to a first haiku of the journey:

Bougainvillea,

palms, fountains, give way to pale

dusty, desert sky.

Bizarrely, just before the edge of the city we passed the Museum honouring the history of American spaghetti Westerns made in this region.

There was one smaller satellite town to negotiate before we entered fully into the arid country that surrounds Almería. 

Most of the rest of the stage was along a dry river bed. This country reminded us of Alice Springs, though the soil and rocks are pale greyish rather than red.

There was one other small village in which we paused for a breather. We enjoyed some of the Easter chocolate given us by friends in Balally (thanks Geraldine and Caroline!!

From here it was just 6km through the river bed to Rioja. 

In Rioja, there’s a small, clean Municipal Albergue which is part of a slightly run down sports complex. So far, we’re sharing it with two Spanish pilgrims and today we’ve met four other pilgrims who are walking further - we’re surprised to have seen this many on this route. 

It’s been a rich, short opening day - for which we give thanks. 

Buen Camino, 

Neil and Sarah