29 April 2023

17. Santa Cruz to Córdoba

The day began with some debate about whether Sarah’s (very) slightly battered knees were up to the 26km stage. To bus or not to bus?? In the end, she decided to walk and was glad - the knees were fine and the stage beautiful. 



Once again we set out early. The temperature hadn’t gone down much overnight - it was 17 degrees when we started, but there were cloudy skies for most of the walk which gave a lot of relief.





The shift from olives to other crops continued - today wheat predominated with the occasional field of sunflowers.







We were conscious it was our last day walking together, and we wanted to savour that. 



We enjoyed a landscape of rolling hills throughout the stage, sometimes guessing how long it would take to reach the crest of the next hill (it always takes longer than you think!!). 



‘What?? You can do this on a paraplane? That’s ridiculous, man!’



The city of Cordoba eventually came into view, stretching along the banks of the Rio Guadalquivir.


Go Sarah, you’re nearly there!



Well done peregrina - 420kms. Salud!



The city gate. 



The Mezquita across the bridge - formerly a mosque and now the cathedral, we will visit it tomorrow.



Lunch in a small plaza - we went for the local specialty again; salmorejo - cold creamy tomato soup with small bits of hard boiled egg and jamon. Absolutely delicious!!



Every Camino, Neil has a haircut and shave at a local barber. There’s always lovely connections despite language limitations, and it’s always a great cut!



As it happens, we are in Cordoba for the weekend of Cruz de May - a spring festival which involves crosses covered in flowers in every plaza, pop up bars and lots of impromptu dancing and flamenco.



Neil happened upon this group outside a church and they were happy to be photographed!



We hope to see and learn more about the fiesta tomorrow, so stay tuned!! Meanwhile, a window from the church near where we are staying.



We’ve spent the evening having a late tapas with Dominique and Michel - the French pilgrims we met on our first day out of Almeria. They finish here in Cordoba and head home tomorrow. 





With gratitude for all the day has brought, 
Buen Camino,
Neil and Sarah 




5 comments:

  1. Congrats on walking into the beautiful city of Cordoba! Sarah, I guess from here you head north for a very quiet month. That will be most interesting and time for your knees to heal. Neil, always an odd feeling to walk on alone, but in its own way very special. I find there is always a different rhythm when walking alone. Enjoy Cordoba! Geoff

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  2. Sensational effort Neil and Sarah (especially with your knees in the last couple of days), and what great timing with the fiesta (beautiful photo of the dancers!) Neil, it looks like your barber is warning: 'you make one more wise crack about my para-planing - and there'll no more orujo de hierbas for you, my man . . . I think I'd rather shove this razor down your neck '

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  3. Well done to both of you on completing this stage of the journey together. The next stage will be very different for each of you. Blessings and peace. You'e amazing! Sending love, Elizabeth R. xo

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  4. Well done to both of you. I hope Sarah will enjoy the quiet and you Neil enjoy the many km before you are in Santiago. Mie

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  5. Very relieved to hear Sarah’s knees improved- thanks to that olive ointment surely- such that you two could savour your last day of walking together before continuing as pilgrims separately for a while. Blessings to both, KAS

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