6. Alquife to Guadix

After a lovely evening of conversation (in three languages) and laughter with fellow pilgrims, this morning saw us making our way out of town past the giant slag heaps of the local mine.

There were two reasonable climbs today, but much of the walk was on relatively flat and smooth terrain - across and through a wide valley. It was another sunny day, but not too hot or windy which makes for pleasant walking.

We met some of the locals along the way and if this fellow is anything to go by, they seem happy enough!

A few sections felt more moist and were reminiscent of Asturias and the Camino Primitivo.

Overall though, we’re definitely still in the drier south. 

This is the largest body of water we’ve seen since leaving Almeria. There’s a drought in these parts and it was only half full, but still a refreshing sight.

More of the locals - sheep and goats grazing together, and a nursery for new lambs. 

We had a really nice stop in a village half way through the stage. After that it was a long flat walk to Guadix.

Gradually olive groves are replacing the acres of almonds, but here it was a mixed economy.

Walking into Guadix, it felt like the badlands again! We passed a Wild West looking cantina with Mexican music playing and houses dug into the sides of the hills. 

In fact, parts of the town are built almost completely underground with little white air towers popping up all over the place.

Indeed the local hostel is in a cueva (cave), and here’s our room!! It’s part of a warren in which most of our fellow pilgrims are also sleeping!

Guadix has a long and interesting history. It was originally settled in the Bronze Age, taken by the Romans and then the Moors. And now it appears still to be flourishing, with a striking cathedral and many other impressive buildings, including another huge Alcabzaba. At present we are sitting near the cathedral in a beautiful rectangular garden plaza bordered by a cloister walk. It seems a remnant if the Moorish past with plantings of palms, roses and mock orange. The place is buzzing with children playing soccer in the centre and their parents chatting peaceably in the warm evening. Soon we’ll meet Paco, a local Camino identity who will take us pilgrims on a tour of the town.

As Dr Zeuss famously wrote, ‘Oh, the places you’ll go!!

Buen Camino 

Sarah and Neil