14. Alcaudete to Baena

We were focused on setting out a little earlier today, since we had close to 26 kilometres to walk with temperatures predicted to rise above 30 degrees. At the same time, with no village between Alcaudete and Baena we were keen to find an open bar and have a bite for breakfast before leaving. We managed both feats, so it was a contented start.

The path itself was gently undulating from start to finish - a delight to walk. And walk we did, for three and a half hours before our first stop. Olives again featured heavily in the experience though it was under the shade of an old oak tree that we did eventually sit to share an orange, a banana, and a couple of squares of chocolate.

We passed two solar farms today. This one stretched for the best part of a kilometre and we estimated there were at least 2500 of these large solar panels. Under the Andalucian sun we imagine this is producing quite a bit of power - and, in between, space for sheep to graze.

 


We have hardly seen a cloud since leaving Alméria, the path has been dry and in places the ground is cracking. Were it to rain, there would be some serious mud to contend with!! 

Half way through the stage we entered into the Province of Córdoba. There was no dramatic change although gradually the terrain is flattening.

Donkeys feeding contentedly and peacocks screaming noisily were features of this little farmstead.

During this section of the stage we there were numerous signs of olive grove renewal - old trees being removed and new saplings planted. 

A distant village complete with mandatory hilltop castle!

Soon after, we perceived the increasingly strong odour of olive oil. The mystery was solved when we crested the hill and came across a huge processing plant in full swing.

From there it was just a few more hot kilometres to Baena.

Some striking graffiti art on the way into town.

We are staying a beautifully clean private albergue tonight - in a room with 6 bunk beds creatively stacked in tiers of three. Since Granada, there have been no municipal albergues and we’ve had to seek alternative accommodation. We’ve slept in shared studio rooms as well as a couple of cheap pensions. It’s been a little more expensive but it has meant having sheets and a towel, and overall, a sounder night’s sleep.

So far, we’re the only ones here so who knows, it might be like a private room anyway!!

Guess who’s tired?? Thank goodness for the afternoon siesta… 💤 💤 💤

Just in from an evening walk in town - sussing the way out and a possible early breakfast stop for tomorrow. It’s really warm and going hotter each day for the rest of this week. Early starts are essential.

A few snapshots to close this post:

These people are into olive oil!!

Sarah (now awake!) in animated conversation with San Domingo - born in Baena, one time Bishop of Fez, and finally a missionary in northern Vietnam (where he was executed by the emperor 🥺).

The view from the front door of the albergue.

Buen camino 👣

Neil y Sarah 👣

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