19. Cerro Muriano to Villaharta

It did rain last night but only enough to settle the dust. When I set off this morning (at 6.20am) there was a slight dampness around but things dried quickly as the sun rose. The way took me out along the main road, past these rows of blue pots (which are a feature of Andalusian pueblos) …

past, and then across the old railway line…

and on past a large Military base - just as the bugle was sounding!

After about 40 minutes, at this plane tree, which seems to be gradually subsuming the yellow arrow, the way diverged from the road into a ‘delightful woodland path’.

Gone are the olives of last week. Here, the predominant tree is the oak, and I saw some beautiful ones today.

Halfway through the stage I passed through the little village of El Vacar. There was an open bar here and I was glad to be able to get some breakfast.

For the next few days I will be walking through the Sierra Morena range. The hills are not as high as in the Sierra Nevadas, but it’s far from flat, and with a bit of heat I’m sure I’ll be working up a sweat!

I made it to Villaharta in good time but it turned out to be tricky to get accommodation. I had planned to stay in the local private Albergue but it was locked and so was the Town Office which held the key (it’s a public holiday in Spain). There was a number to ring but it wasn’t on WhatsApp so I couldn’t call it! When I eventually found someone to call for me, the person at the other end was unwilling or unable to come and unlock it. Eventually, I found a bed in a Hostal a couple of kilometres back on the highway towards Cerro Muriano. It meant backtracking, which a pilgrim hates to do, and it also means 2km extra on top of a big stage tomorrow. C’est la vie!

When I arrived at El Cruce, the Hostal, the adjoining restaurant was in full swing serving lunch for at least a hundred people. I showed and washed clothes, and then joined them. I saw Migas Camperas on the menu (a local speciality peasant dish and one of Alba’s recommendations) so I ordered it - 7€. It has a base of bread and white beans, from what I could tell, and to this is added chorizo, black pudding, pimientos, orange, radish, garlic (unpeeled cloves), an egg, and various other bits and pieces (probably whatever is around in terms of leftovers). It was delicious and very filling!

Tomorrow’s stage to Alcaracejos is 37km. The Gronze app gives it a 4-star level of difficulty (out of five). There is 800 vertical metres of descent, and, for me, since I have to walk back up to Villaharta, 900 vertical metres of ascent. There is no village in between, so I need to carry food as well as water. Should be fun!!

To give a rough sense of where I am, I’m on the green bit  of this map between Córdoba and Mérida. In a day or so, I pass from Andalucía into the region of Extremadura.

I’ve just heard from Sarah, who is holed up in an airport hotel outside of Barcelona. Tomorrow morning she flys to Bordeaux and then she takes a train to Poitiers. The retreat she is leading starts tomorrow evening, so all things working out, she will just make it in time!!

Buen Camino 

Neil 🧡👣

PS. A special thanks to Karsten and Esther for their help in sorting my accommodation. It seems that we three are the only pilgrims walking this stage.