Domingo de Resurrección

Resucitado! Easter greetings from Almería. We’ve had an Easter morning unlike any other!

Last night, we once again stumbled across a procession - this one carrying Jesus on the cross in the process of being lowered. 

As we followed it around the corner of the cathedral, we heard singing coming from a smaller church to the side and went in through the half open wooden door. We found a small congregation in the midst of the Easter vigil - lights still dimmed as they worked through the readings from (we presumed) the Hebrew bible and the psalms. In due course, we got to the proclamation of resurrection, the lights came on, sanctuary bells rang and the gospel was proclaimed. At one level, the liturgy was terrible - a rather toneless nun leading the singing, three elderly priests bringing little energy, a rag tag congregation, a garish altar backing filled with artificial flowers! In the renewal of baptismal vows, the priest stayed up at the altar and waved water in our general direction!! And of course, we dared not go forward for communion. 

And yet, after the vastly varied religious contexts we’ve experienced in the past couple of weeks, it was surprisingly moving to be there. Christ is risen, no matter the quality of the celebration, no matter the ways we divide ourselves up - and in joining with that tiny group, we sensed the communion of all the faithful. 

Throughout the night, peels of bells chimed as different congregations proclaimed resurrection. Then this morning, after a late breakfast, we made our way to the cathedral plaza, where all week a stage and chairs have been set up. Finally, their moment had come! People had begun gathering and though we didn’t know what was happening, it seemed good to hang around! At around 12.30pm, the cathedral bells began to ring, the crowd got fuller and the faint sound of drums was heard approaching. 

The procession started to pass by - first the figures in white and children dressed in gold carrying empty crosses; then some dignitaries with more figures in white. 

We could smell sweet incense and the bells were ringing. Finally, after quite a pause, the enormous float bearing the mannequin of the risen Christ came into view down the street. 

These floats can be (so we read) up to 5000kg and they are carried by members of the guilds responsible for different aspects of the Holy Week celebrations. The float moved opposite the door of the Cathedral, and was slowly turned to face the door, the crowd applauding the accomplishment. The door itself had been opened and a large statue of Jesus on the cross wheeled into the entrance. As the risen Christ faced the dying Christ, the band played triumphantly, the bishop came out of the cathedral to proclaim the resurrection, lead prayers and pronounce blessing. It was as if life was facing death, and life was the victor. 

At this point, we wondered if the risen Christ float would be taken into the Cathedral. But very movingly, after this part of the ritual, the float was painstakingly re-shouldered by its bearers and turned again to keep going through the narrow winding streets of the city. As if he does not dwell in the church but goes out into all the world, the band and drums following along with the crowds. 

Late this afternoon, we went to the Cathedral office to get our pilgrim passports stamped. Tomorrow, we too will wend our way out through the winding streets and out into the world! 

Buen Camino, 

Sarah and Neil