Saturday 6 May 2023

24. Campanario to Don Benito

I had planned for a slower start this morning (since it was only a 28km stage) but my companions in the Refugio were up with lights on at 6am. No point in trying to rest once that happens, may as well get up and go. So I upped and went! 





I had some nice interaction with the crew last night, though we had limited cross over in terms of language. That’s Antoine in the middle, and the 89 year old lady I mentioned yesterday, on the right - François. She is also an artist. She showed us some photos of her work on her phone (yes, she’s got the technology working!) and it was good. 



The moon has been a feature of the mornings these past few stages and today it just seemed to be very relaxed about setting!!



This landscape of broad blue skies and vast swathes of sparsely populated, gently rolling, high, treeless plains really reminds me of the Monaro region between Cooma, Nimmitabel and Jindabyne in southern NSW. 





As the moon was slowly setting on my left, the sun was rising on my right.





This is Magacela, you can see the lights of this hilltop pueblo glimmering in the distance in the second photo. 


Magacela, with its crumbling hill-top castle is 12 kms from Campanario. I had hoped to stop there for breakfast but no such luck as no bars were open. 



There was nothing for it but to walk on another 8kms to La Haba. I struck gold there with a good coffee and tostadas. I was definitely ready for something.

The final 9kms to Don Benito were gentle (apart from when a dog threatened to attack me), long, windy, and sometimes winding. On occasions, I could see the path stretching ahead for at least three kilometres. These views can be a bit daunting when the legs get heavy. I kept myself going by guessing how long it would take me to walk to certain landmarks. For example, how long do you think it would take to walk to the farthest point of the path in this picture?



I guessed 30 minutes and I was one minute out!!



Not long after my guessing game a car with a young couple pulled up beside me. They asked if I needed a lift? When I explained that I was walking to Santiago there was lots of nodding and smiling and amazement! They then asked if I needed anything? Finally, they reached our and shook my hand and wished me well, and drove on. It was such a nice interaction - the kindness of strangers.

Eventually, the town came into view and from that point it was only another 40 minutes or so before I found a place to stay (no albergue here).



I’m feeling a bit weary this afternoon so I’m going to try for a siesta. But before that, some food, and here’s the evidence. 



Buen Camino
Neil 🐟💚👣




7 comments:

  1. I’ve been reminded of the Monaro too. Austere.
    This camino seems to have been a bit of a mixed bag for accomodation, compared to the others. But sounds like your own space might be welcome tonight. Accumulated tiredness strikes! Charles

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  2. Hi Neil, I met a Francois, an elderly artist from Paris, on my CF in 2016. I can't remember what she looked like, but I wonder if she is one and the same? Francois on the CF was born in Algeria and trained in Paris and the US. She'd just had a big retrospective in Paris when I met her and was finishing the CF on the proceeds! Kate

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  3. I estimated 20 minutes and was way off. I'm obviously not a long distance walker. Yes, the kindness of strangers can often be the best. Rest well. Love, Elizabeth R

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  4. The moon sets, the sun rises, the red earth glows, the wheat grows…, the vast landscape… of your trail and of your mind… same same but different and all amongst the companionable friendships of strangers connected by all that connects us all… What evocative photos that speak to the shared experiences of life. ❤️👣🙏 Deb

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  5. When you wrote that the folks in car reached out - my immediate thought was, to hand you chocolate?! …. Clearly I have been following you and Sarah too long for chocolate to be so on my mind 😵‍💫 glad you got that scrumptious meal KAS

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  6. Dear Sarah and Neil have been with you in spirit all the way. Really appreciate reading your blog and seeing the beautiful pictures . God bless you on your way. Mary Therese

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  7. The landscape looks a little like western Canada, too. Except for the sudden hills. Ken

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