Monday 22 May 2023

40. Tábara to Calzadilla de Tera

I had another good night’s sleep last night, and this was followed by a simple breakfast presented by our hosts in the albergue. As a couple of you noted in your comments yesterday, it’s amazing what a difference a sleep, some space, and a few creature comforts make!!

And then it was time to go - just as the sun was rising.





It was a beautiful morning to be out walking - milder than in recent days and hardly any breeze. Perfecto!

















Towards the end of the morning I entered the broad, fertile valley of the rio Tera. I walked in to the little village of Santa Marta de Croya, and two kilometres later, Santa Marta de Tera. This is where most of the crew from Tábara we’re planning to stop but it felt too early to be stopping. I had energy and the urge to keep going.







When I walked the Camino Levánte five years ago, I stayed in a nice little albergue in Calzadilla de Tera, 11 kilometres further on. Other pilgrims advised against this on this occasion because it was Monday and the only bar near Calzadilla would be closing early and not be serving meals. Hang it, I thought, I’ll order a bocadillo to go in Santa Marta de Tera and take my chances.







I’m glad I pressed on. The path was delightful in the early afternoon sun (it felt warm for the first time in weeks) and I had it completely to myself.



When I arrived at Calzadilla, the albergue (in the stand alone building in this picture) was unlocked and empty. I wandered in and choose a bed. 



After showering and washing clothes, I walked down the hill and across the rio Tera to Bar Blanco in the village on the other side - Calzada de Tera. I had a nice chat with the owner of the bar (despite language barriers) about local wines and ordered a vino Tinto (from nearby Toro) together with a tapas of tortilla. It was a pleasant place to rest awhile, sorting photos and starting the blog.



These local bars are interesting places. One minute they are empty and looking like they haven’t had a Custer for days, and the next minute they are buzzing with twenty or thirty Spaniards (mostly men) all talking and laughing loudly. That’s what happened in Bar Blanco while I was there, and then the cards came out - four tables with four men to a table.



And, in contrast to the bar, here’s the albergue with just me in residence. No cards here unless it Patience!!



Oh, and here’s the view from the window. Not bad, and all for a small donation, which I leave in a little box near the door.



Actually, in this photo you may have noticed a guy on a ride on mower, mowing the lawn. A few moments ago, he and another couple were having a bit of a conversation outside the window. I looked out and noticed that some of my washing had blown off the line next to them. Before I had time to go down, one of them  had already picked it up and hung it on the line. This is just one example of hospitality to pilgrims shown by so many in Spain. For every kind gesture, I give thanks.

Buen Camino 
Neil🧡👣

PS. I’m happy to report that there was no flare up with the blister despite covering over 33kms today.

7 comments:

  1. Hey Neil
    Great pictures and nice to see how you progress. Enjoy your camino!
    All the best
    Manuel

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  2. Yay you Neil for your additional afternoon stroll and discoveries. Greetings with appreciation from this armchair traveller. I was struck by someone’s earlier comment how food had dropped off the list of topics and photos. But beds appear to have become focus! Is this linked to the traveller’s state of mind? … or perhaps the region travelled through? Glad to hear both wind and blister are receding into memory. KAS

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  3. Appreciate the prompt release of dramatic tension around good sleep and blisters! That looks like a perfect day for a peregrino. Charles

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  4. From the trials around Montamarta, the transition to the Sanabres, the communal warmth of Tabara, the greening undulating countryside, the beautiful river, the solitude - inspiring engaging expansive soulful - thanks mate

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  5. Thank you for sharing these amazing photos. Go gently. Rest well. Love and peace, Elizabeth R.

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  6. Love the countryside! And wild flowers! And sunrises! And amongst it all background TV news reports a murder … seems so incongruous amidst such abundant beauty and kindness. Tis the latter I’ll focus on! ❤️👣 Deb

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  7. I'm glad you found the bar open! Ken

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