Inside, Kerry bestowed a blessing on us and commended us to the care of God and the community of pilgrims. We were touched by his words and also enjoyed the relative simplicity of the cathedral itself. Much less over the top baroque than many Iberian igrejas!
It was lovely to spend the morning with Kerry, with whom we also shared our first pastel de nata (Portugese tart) and a little later, as the temperature began to rise, a mid-morning beer. Here's one of Kerry and me in the huge open square of the Praca do Comercio.
Part of our mission for today was to find out where to obtain our pilgrim passports. Turns out the Cathedral no longer supplies them, so we were told Igrejas dos Martires, Church of the Martyrs, was the place. It was tricky to find, which meant a great chance to explore the Chiado district and enjoy a few tram rides.
Yesterday our impression was of a kind of fading glory in the city. Today we were struck by the vast amount of building and renovation going on, as well as a vibrant street life.
We found where to get our pilgrim passports, but didn't have our actual passports with us. We'll have to come back tomorrow! On our way home we visited our third major church - this one the ruins of Santa Maria do Carmo. Founded in 1389, it was one of the most beautiful Gothic churches in Lisbon until the earthquake of 1755 caused its roof to collapse. Many in the All Saints Day congregation were killed that Sunday morning, provoking widespread discussion about theodicy. The legacy today is striking.
There are various monuments, including stone baptismal fonts, carved pillars, and the odd gargoyle. How's this for an angelic face?
And, there's always a shadow!!
So, it's been an interesting day of wandering and, for me, renewing my acquaintance with this entrancing and slightly chaotic city. We both felt much better today after a pretty good first night's sleep. And, while I've been tapping away on this blog, Neil has composed a simple haiku that returns us to the beginning:
A pilgrim blessing
In cathedral quiet
Begins the new day.
Our warm wishes to everyone back home, Sarah and Neil
I knew about the 1755 earthquake--anybody who reads "Candide" learns about that disaster--but never imagined that the ruins would still be standing! Remarkable.
ReplyDeleteIt's good that you managed to connect with a friend from back home on the other side of the world. We lived in a Portuguese neighbourhood in Toronto and loved the custard tarts the bakeries sold--are they the same as the ones in Lisbon?
You must have a couple more days in Lisbon before you start walking. I'm surprised you needed your actual passport to get a credential. I'll remember that if I ever walk the Caminho Portugues.
Bom Caminho!
Ken
P.S. Christine read Sarah's paper yesterday and she thought it was great.
I'm pretty sure they are the same tarts, ken - a so-called Portuguese specialty. Yes, we were a bit surprised that we needed proof of id to be a credential, after all, we have to but them. As it turns out we have found the church if Santiago just near where we are staying, if it is open today we'll get our credentials there. I recall now having to show passports when we got our credentials in st jean pied de Porte, hopefully we can sort it today as we will be starting with a gentle stage tomorrow. Glad Christine liked Sarah's paper. Please share our greetings. Best, Neil and Sarah
DeleteHere's another one to ponder:
ReplyDeleteEach smooth curve of a
magnolia petal
a slow graceful dance.
Bom Caminho!
Merilyn
A beautiful haiku, Merrilyn,
DeleteWe'll look out for magnolia today but not sure if it is the right season for them yet. How are those new grandchildren going? I guess we're not so far from them here. Warm wishes, Neil
Such beautiful cathedral spaces and street architecture. I am always struck by the oldness of buildings in other countries compared to the relative newness of buildings here - all the stories that are held in such spaces. Yet alongside this is what is so very ancient in our landscape, holding different kinds of stories and sacredness...
ReplyDeleteHope you found the sardines for lunch that you enjoyed twenty five years ago Sarah?!
may your first walk day be gentle, love Karina
Looks lovely! What fun to post our blog then turn around and read your blog. You're just down the coast and ready to go. It will be wonderful, and you will have such a special time. So much to see, new places to visit, new people to meet! We are fully expecting you to be fully language integrated by the time we arrive...we will handle the Spanish once we cross the border...then you can really have a good chuckle! Safe journey and watch those Portuguese drivers!! Bom Caminho!! PS. Annemarie very pleased you understood her poem. Geoff
ReplyDeletePosting the blessing for Sarah and Neil - at last
ReplyDeleteMay the Lord who called our father Abraham to journey into the unknown
Guard and bless you on your journey
May the spirit be with you as your companion on the road
May you follow in the steps of the Son
Those who love you from Canberra, the Benedictus Community, your friends and family
commend you into the hands of God and into the community of the pilgrims on the way.
May the Lord be in your going out and communing in from this time forth and evermore
and the blessings of God Almighty, the Father, the Son and the Holy Spirit
Be among and remain with you forever
Ahmen