Rest Day - Coimbra

We've really enjoyed pottering around this lovely old city, finding our pension via many cobbled lanes and flights of steps, and resting weary bodies. The grand rio Mondego borders the old city and we crossed this morning from our albergue on the other side - a glorious sunny day. 

We're conscious of being in a little transition at this point. Coimbra marks the end of the first phase of the Camino Portugese, and it also marks a change in our company of pilgrims. We will be staying on for one more day while others we've met walk on tomorrow, including Ilja who has become a friend as well as being such a great walking companion over the past eight days. 

At the same time, it's been a great delight to meet up with friends we met on the Camino Frances, Geoff and Annemarie, who arrived this morning from Porto. We four are staying at Casa Pombal, just up this street.

The view from the little balcony, perched high up on the old city.

Before we found it this morning, we went past the old cathedral (Se velha). We loved its warm stone and simple shapes.

Coimbra was the first capital of Portugal, and the old city is full of statues, churches and intriguing little cobbled alleys.

This seemed to be lace work hanging across the lane, and we thought of you, Mum.

Coimbra is also home to one of the oldest universities in Europe, and the university at the top of town is a World Heritage listed site.

Students seem still to have to wear the traditional black academic gowns - even on a Saturday. We saw this troop of student musicians walking up stairs beneath our cafe stop, and later playing near the famous library.

Neil decided today was the day for a haircut and our landlady directed us to a traditional local establishment in a not so touristy area. 

Neil went the whole hog, and had a shave as well. He says it's the best haircut experience he's ever had. For me watching, it was a pleasure to see the barber so absorbed and careful in his work - particularly when he was wielding the cut throat razer!!

We spent the afternoon mooching around, being aware of some weariness in our bodies and enjoying the change of pace.

We joined with our fellow pilgrims for a 'farewell' dinner of sorts, honouring the time we've shared on the road and hoping we may catch up with some again.

From left to right around the table: Frank from Norway, Rolf from Germany, Neil and Sarah, then Geoff, Mary and Annemarie from Canada, Mie from Denmark, and Ilja from the Czech Republic. 

We're conscious that another Benedictus service happened early today, our time, Nikolai's farewell. We were thinking of you all and hope you had a great service and celebration. 

With warm wishes to you all.

Bom caminho

Neil and Sarah