Stage 4. Porto de Muge to Santarem - 16kms, sunny and hot

Our stay in Paula's place was a sanctuary after a long and demanding day of walking. Her hospitality was so generous and we felt deeply refreshed despite the weariness in our bodies. Needless to say, we were happier to be doing a shorter stage to Santarem today. Santarem has a long history of conquest, first by the Romans, and then by the Moors, and finally by the Portuguese, no doubt because it is situated on one of the few high points in the region.

Renato from Brazil, Ilja from Czech and Sarah from Australia.

Sarah and Paula, our hostess whose hospitality was so gracious.

One of Paula's cats on the roof outside our window.

Transport for many is simple here.

Our morning walk along a quiet country road between fields of tomatoes and grapevines was delightful, despite the rising temperature.

It is a Sunday and it is quail shooting season so men were out with their guns and dogs - apparently it is not a good year for quail. This man had only two hanging from his belt. His beautiful dog reminded us of Simon and Jess and Micah and James who have a tribe of GSP dogs, so guys, this one is for you.

As we arrived at the foot of the final ascent into Santarem we were admiring a man practising dressage on a most distinguished looking steed (this is horse country) when a woman in curlers (a mama type) beckoned us into her bar for a cevagas (beer). We were reluctant but she was persistent. In the end, we were glad we did. Not only did her cold beer refresh us for the steep walk into town but it turns out her son is a bullfighter and we got to see some amazing photos of his prowess in the ring. It is such a different world, and yet, here was just one more mother proud of her son and keen to share her story.

That's him being thrown by the bull!!

Following this little break we climbed our way into Santarem and found accommodation for 5 euro in the Casa de Miseracordia, which is a nursing home but which also has 6 beds in a little old cottage for peregrinos. 

We showered and washed the dust and sweat off our clothes and then rested for a time before walking into the centre of town. Once again, we have been touched by the kindness from locals, slowing down on dusty roads so we don't get covered in dust, pointing directions and giving little tips to help us out. One man stopped his car half way up the hill to inquire if we were okay. What a difference all these small acts of hospitality make when you are on pilgrimage.

Our wander through the town revealed some really amazing churches reflecting the design of different eras. This one is late Renaissance style, 16th century - simply stunning, with beautifully delicate frescos.

This one is 17th century Manueline style. The walls are covered in blue tiles (azulejos), and it made us wonder about the Moorish influence here. There was no representation of the human figure, just the abstract designs of the tiles as you'd expect from decoration in a mosque.

This photo was taken after a major rescue effort for Neil's new Tilley hat, which blew over the battlements of the Porta do Sol and very luckily got caught in a tree part way down the wall. Neil broke off a handy plane tree branch and hooked it back up the side - much to our relief.

The amazing view from Porta do Sol of the river Tejo and surrounding countryside.

Then back for a beer at those tables on the right. 

So we've had a restful afternoon which we have very much appreciated in this gorgeous little town. We are off to find some dinner and have a good night's sleep before another long, 32km day tomorrow. Overall, we are really pleased with how our bodies are holding up and it's lovely to feel well enough really to savour the gifts of these days.

We hope Benedictus went well last night, and we send our love and blessings to all.

Bom caminho,

Neil and Sarah