Stage 5. Santarem to Golega - 37 kms, sunny and hot.

Today's stage ended up quite a bit longer than we anticipated, because of some re-routing of the way-marked path. Instead of around 32km we walked 37km, and the last few began to tell! But we are happily ensconced in a private albergue in the lovely little town of Golega, and the day has been wonderful - beautiful rural paths, good companions and the experience of the real kindness of strangers.

We began in the pre-dawn light, walking out of Santarem through the medieval gate of St James and down a steep hillside.

We soon caught up with a couple of peregrinas - Mie from Denmark and Mary from Victoria in Canada, who turns out to be a friend of Geoff and Annemarie, who we met on our last pilgrimage and are meeting up with in Coimbra (what are the chances of that... don't answer that Charles!!). We love the easy companionship of the way, and how quickly you can begin to share stories and support one another in the journey.

The early morning was cool and slightly misty, and the road took us through fields of all kinds of crops - tomatoes, red peppers, corn, grapes, melons, sunflowers and pumpkin. We were loving the off-road walking.

This one is for Iva, Ilja's wife. Ilja is doing really well, Iva, as you can see he looks healthy and happy... though, he is missing you madly and is also a little sunburnt!! He said, you are his sunflower.

Cork trees - a feature of Portugal.

And here's one for Ma - quinces in honour of your famous quince paste!

 And a few pumpkins...

This has got to be easier than walking! Where's the steering wheel??

As we walked between high walls of corn, we were struck by the incredible light - a light that painters like Van Gogh wanted to capture in rural Provence, We had a sense of being unable fully to take in the beauty or delight in it sufficiently. Phenomenologists speak about such experiences as 'saturated phenomena' because they overwhelm your capacity to absorb them. We were certainly drenched today, and with such gratitude for this opportunity.

As well as doing wonders with colours the light also cast shadows in sharp relief.

We stopped for lunch and I was cooling my tired feet on empty beer bottles at our outside table. A young man sitting at the next table noticed what I was doing and asked if I would like some ice. He proceeded to go to the bar to ask for ice, and returned with a set of ice cubes wrapped in a tea towel. Amazing kindness, and gives new appreciation for the significance of foot washing after a day on the road in ancient times.

The afternoon was again hot, dusty and unexpectedly long. 

But it included a stretch by a beautiful section of Rio Almondo, a tributary of the Tejo.

And here's one for Geoff - an egret and reflection.

We finally reached the edge of Golega after a long slog up asphalt road, and were greeted by this magificent avenue of plane trees to cool our way in. Pat, this one is for you!

Till today we hadn't met many other pilgrims but this evening sees a cluster (or a 'stagger', Neil's collective noun for pilgrims) of us in town. We had our first pilgrim menu tonight shared with nine others from seven nations, if you include the Portuguese owner of the bar - such a happy and fun night, all tired but in good spirits.

Tomorrow the first rain of our trip is forecast so we hope the words of Karina's blessing for us at Benedictus are honoured: 'May your rain coats be unnecessary or excellent'!! We're about to find out!!

We leave you with a picture of footprints in the dust, which are only fully to be appreciated on the eve of rain, when you know it's about to turn into mud!

With love and blessings, an immense gratitude,

Bom caminho,

Sarah and Neil